tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27019908085577772252024-03-08T17:57:21.552-05:00Headed south!Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.comBlogger40125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-41210230315422599732017-10-13T17:00:00.000-05:002018-04-17T07:46:01.614-05:00Pimp my (bus) ride!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pBs_Km2UkXk/WeVIkrSGmVI/AAAAAAAAYgQ/JALlF_9pvXwJALLGZjWD0EOtwGSXIv2dwCKgBGAs/s1600/2017%2B10%2B13%2BCiudad%2BVieja%2Bbus%2Bfactory%2B06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1600" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pBs_Km2UkXk/WeVIkrSGmVI/AAAAAAAAYgQ/JALlF_9pvXwJALLGZjWD0EOtwGSXIv2dwCKgBGAs/s320/2017%2B10%2B13%2BCiudad%2BVieja%2Bbus%2Bfactory%2B06.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refinishing seat frames in a bus workshop,<br />
Ciudad Vieja, Guatemala</td></tr>
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Those of you reading this who are from the US...have you every wondered what happened to your old yellow school bus, the one that took you faithfully to & from school each day? Probably not. Well me neither. But when I started traveling in Belize, I realized that those yellow school buses became retired expats themselves, turning into public long distance buses in Central America (& elsewhere). I have ridden many a "Blue Bird" bus in Belize around that country, reminiscing as I did about time in my youth spent in such buses (and the dramas of who sits with whom & where--in front with the nerds or in the back with the smokers; jumping out the bus's back door during fire drills; and what about when you miss that dang bus?!).
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RknTKKt7CiM/WeVI95OVIuI/AAAAAAAAYgY/t-yo4M0-4nY4kDqsOw9JhOJUKrCR0Xa3ACKgBGAs/s1600/2017%2B10%2B13%2BCiudad%2BVieja%2Bbus%2Bfactory%2B04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1049" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RknTKKt7CiM/WeVI95OVIuI/AAAAAAAAYgY/t-yo4M0-4nY4kDqsOw9JhOJUKrCR0Xa3ACKgBGAs/s320/2017%2B10%2B13%2BCiudad%2BVieja%2Bbus%2Bfactory%2B04.jpg" width="209" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font-family: Geneva; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
Anything can be "Blue Bird" </div>
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when you have this plate!</div>
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Here in Guatemala, I got to tour a "factory" near Antigua that converts your childhood school bus into a suh-weet looking set of wheels, ready to take you from one town to another. The tour was offered by the non-profit <a href="https://ninosdeguatemala.org/guatemalatours/" target="_blank">Niños de Guatemala</a>, and according to my tour guide, there are 32 such workshops in Ciudad Vieja (4 miles from Antigua) alone, a town of some 28,000 people.<br />
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How does this all happen? Your boring yellow bus, having reached ~10 years of age, is purchased at an auction in the US, after which it is driven down to Guatemala, likely loaded with spare bus pieces & parts. Per my tour guide & <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/31/movies/la-camioneta-the-journey-of-one-american-school-bus.html" target="_blank">a documentary on these buses</a>, the drive through Mexico for these folks can be a bit dodgy, as robberies are frequent and bribes often requested.<br />
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Once in Guatemala, the bus goes to a "factory" to be converted for local use. The workers then do their magic, for example:<br />
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*Ditching the snow tires & doing whatever mechanical work may need to be done.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XOTvv5djCbg/WeVJDpdO2EI/AAAAAAAAYgc/FT1t8keU-L4rSe82r9rOLSIDbNSntbj0gCKgBGAs/s1600/2017%2B10%2B13%2BCiudad%2BVieja%2Bbus%2Bfactory%2B01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XOTvv5djCbg/WeVJDpdO2EI/AAAAAAAAYgc/FT1t8keU-L4rSe82r9rOLSIDbNSntbj0gCKgBGAs/s320/2017%2B10%2B13%2BCiudad%2BVieja%2Bbus%2Bfactory%2B01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This baby's almost ready to roll</td></tr>
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*Adding features: racks to the top of the bus for luggage storage, ladders to the back of the bus in order to reach this rooftop storage, racks inside the bus for smaller bags, maybe a rail to the bus ceiling for standing passengers to hold on to, another rail along the entry door for the "ayudante" (bus assistant) to hold on to (because most of his trip is spent standing in the open door--yes, while moving also)<br />
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*Imprinting the "Blue Bird" logo on whatever pieces they may have added or redone (seat backs, entry panels, etc.); doesn't matter that this work has nothing to do with the real "Blue Bird" company!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FWa7VousmvQ/WeVKGM-FabI/AAAAAAAAYgw/C8VWzo3teUk_JHPKNS_mrIvkvxGh_d3vQCKgBGAs/s1600/2017%2B10%2BGuatemala%2Bbuses%2BPA160045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FWa7VousmvQ/WeVKGM-FabI/AAAAAAAAYgw/C8VWzo3teUk_JHPKNS_mrIvkvxGh_d3vQCKgBGAs/s320/2017%2B10%2BGuatemala%2Bbuses%2BPA160045.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished product hard at work!<br />
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*Doing the most awesomest paint job ever so that anyone who sees that bus will want to jump on it right away, no matter where it's headed; preferred decorations seem to include bright colors and religious icons.<br />
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These "pimped up" buses at peak times will carry passengers packed three to a seat and standing in the aisles, not to mention of course the occasional live chicken. They will go speeds, distances, and over terrain never dreamed of by your school district for another 10-15 years or so at least!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hold on tight please buddy</td></tr>
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<br />Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-23567319587188931192017-10-03T15:00:00.000-05:002018-04-17T07:45:38.283-05:00Back to Belize<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z7LOO8uHBJY/Wd1KyzBgk9I/AAAAAAAAYWQ/GMZtU8tBkrocV4OMO8PLal-4lNfP441xACLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B09%2B25%2BMary%2BBock%252C%2BBarb%252C%2BJudy%252C%2BRosa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z7LOO8uHBJY/Wd1KyzBgk9I/AAAAAAAAYWQ/GMZtU8tBkrocV4OMO8PLal-4lNfP441xACLcBGAs/s320/2017%2B09%2B25%2BMary%2BBock%252C%2BBarb%252C%2BJudy%252C%2BRosa.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting our coffee & chocolate fix at San Pedro's<br />
<a href="http://belizechocolatecompany.com/the-boutique/" target="_blank">Chocolate Boutique</a>!</td></tr>
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It was great being back in Belize for a month plus -- this time I was cat sitting on Ambergris Caye for the "aloof-but-happy-to-see-me-if-I-gave-her-a-treat" Stella, who lived right in San Pedro town! (Of course while there I was also there keeping up on all things happening with <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">the condos I work with in Belize</a>, as there's always something new.) Highlights of this island visit!<br />
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1. Catching up with island friends, who, among other things, kept me caffeinated & chocolate-filled.<br />
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2. <a href="http://www.sanpedroscoop.com/2017/09/september-celebrations-celebrate-2017.html" target="_blank">September is the month of holidays in Belize</a>; my in-town digs offered me a front row seat to the parades: bring on your Belizean blue, white & red (please note the correct order of saying the flag's colors)!<br />
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3. Facebook connected me with Mary, from San Diego via Wisconsin, who coincidentally has ties to Cartagena AND was on Ambergris Caye at the same time I was! We first met face-to-face to <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/help-saga/volunteering/" target="_blank">walk the shelter dogs</a> and after one short walk, a deluge started, so we spent the next 45 minutes getting to know each other while staying dry in one of the kennels (the pup we were in there with there loved the attention of course)--a meeting to be remembered! Also did a day trip to neighboring Caye Caulker, where we visited the seahorse ranch (although the creatures proved elusive) and got to feed tarpon; see video! (they have no teeth, but they do swallow their prey hole....bwahahaha.)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wC1jo6EOX9Q/Wd1TH_hNiGI/AAAAAAAAYWo/G5QkIN531GMr5Y8k-e3FWSTBFlWQqXOTQCLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B10%2B02%2BMariposa%2BJungle%2BLodge%2B%2BPA020038%2Bdescending%2Bto%2BXibalba.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wC1jo6EOX9Q/Wd1TH_hNiGI/AAAAAAAAYWo/G5QkIN531GMr5Y8k-e3FWSTBFlWQqXOTQCLcBGAs/s320/2017%2B10%2B02%2BMariposa%2BJungle%2BLodge%2B%2BPA020038%2Bdescending%2Bto%2BXibalba.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading down to Xibalba...<br />
likely in a manner the Maya did not!<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Before leaving Belize & on my way to Guatemala, I spent a night in the mainland at the <a href="http://www.mariposajunglelodge.com/" target="_blank">Mariposa Jungle Lodge</a>. What a treat! Descended into the Maya underworld in a tour of the nearby <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Q5aRczHFJM" target="_blank">Bols Cave Museum</a>.</span> It is filled with Maya relics and bones from 950 B.C. We heard stories of blood letting and sacrifices made there in Xibalba, the underworld….and then turned off all flashlights to experience utter and complete darkness....creepy!!!<br />
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Next up: Guatemala!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qd7Hca-cfUQ/Wd1TBywQ2wI/AAAAAAAAYWk/jJdzMNMqKJglTJ0K9npz56VIyXsoMJ8JgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC02374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1032" data-original-width="1527" height="270" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qd7Hca-cfUQ/Wd1TBywQ2wI/AAAAAAAAYWk/jJdzMNMqKJglTJ0K9npz56VIyXsoMJ8JgCLcBGAs/s400/DSC02374.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What are the stories behind these ~3000 year old Maya bones?<br />
<i style="text-align: start;">(More Bols Cave photos <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vmh5TqrFg4nGbTCj1" target="_blank">here</a>.)</i></td></tr>
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-819277279518242042017-07-03T13:54:00.001-05:002021-01-14T10:21:15.607-05:00My canine carry-on, Coco from Cartagena -- how did that happen?<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ebv85wZIi4w/WVmT_EAt2BI/AAAAAAAAXgc/uIt4c_QD-54COEI72adyPum_Gf2SnbKlgCLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B06%2B28%2BCoco%2BIMG_2499.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="750" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ebv85wZIi4w/WVmT_EAt2BI/AAAAAAAAXgc/uIt4c_QD-54COEI72adyPum_Gf2SnbKlgCLcBGAs/s200/2017%2B06%2B28%2BCoco%2BIMG_2499.jpg" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meeting Coco at the Cartagena airport</td></tr>
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I started volunteering at an animal shelter when I spent a few months in Belize in 2014. At that time Judy & Beth, whom I met when they picked me up at the water taxi dock, brought me to my house-sit, and then said to me on leaving, "We'll pick you up at 8 am tomorrow; we're going to the shelter to walk dogs." Um, ok. I like dogs. I like to walk. I like to volunteer. Works for me!<br />
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Since then, every visit to <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/ambergris-caye/" target="_blank">Ambergris Caye</a> has had me at <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/" target="_blank">Saga Humane Society</a> getting weekly quality time walking some of the most lovable & adorable pooches around. And my consciousness was raised so that I also became aware of <a href="http://www.cartagenapaws.com/" target="_blank">Cartagena Paws</a>, an organization in another country I visit often, which helps the all too numerous street animals in that city.<br />
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Both Belize's <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/" target="_blank">Saga Humane Society</a> and Colombia's <a href="http://www.cartagenapaws.com/" target="_blank">Cartagena Paws</a> work not only to help abandoned animals, but they of course want these dogs & cats to have forever homes too. Many times those willing & best able to adopt pets live in the US or Canada, and so the critters lucky enough to be adopted often need help getting to their new homes. This is where travelers like me (& you?) come in handy!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3lial-5IQy4/WVmULAH3AkI/AAAAAAAAXgg/L7xEhVPNQikN7nraa42vtDaGKwtibEPaQCLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B05%2B17%2BPacking%2Bfor%2Ba%2BPurpose%2Bto%2BCartagena.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3lial-5IQy4/WVmULAH3AkI/AAAAAAAAXgg/L7xEhVPNQikN7nraa42vtDaGKwtibEPaQCLcBGAs/s200/2017%2B05%2B17%2BPacking%2Bfor%2Ba%2BPurpose%2Bto%2BCartagena.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Packing for a Purpose with donations!!</td></tr>
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When flying from the US to Belize or Colombia, I usually bring an extra suitcase filled with <a href="https://www.packforapurpose.org/" target="_blank">Pack For A Purpose</a> donations for the local community. That leaves me "light handed" on my return to the US, and so it was a no brainer to volunteer to be a pet escort. <i>Cartagena Paws</i> happened to have the perfect fit for me this trip -- my first opportunity to serve -- as puppy Coco needed to get to his new mom in Maryland at the end of June.<br />
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<a href="http://www.cartagenapaws.com/coco.html" target="_blank">Coco</a>, his four brothers & their mom had been found in an abandoned lot, obviously neglected and in need of help. They all received medical care, vaccinations, etc, and ultimately found families in the US; there were a number of different flight volunteers in June flying them to California, New York, Massachusetts, & of course Maryland.<br />
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I met Coco & his foster dad (& foster terrier brother!) at the airport the day before our flight, so customs paperwork could be processed. I volunteered to foster Coco for his last night in Colombia so we could bond a bit before our long travel day -- what a cutie! After getting a huge number of licks from him at the airport, Coco followed my every step in the apartment. I would be at the kitchen sink and he would lie at my feet; if I went the two steps from there to the refrigerator, he got up to follow me; of course if I was sitting anywhere, he needed to be curled up next to me. Adorable!<br />
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On travel day, Coco happily got in to his pet carrier, where he would be spending most of the next 11 hours (poor guy!). He was a jewel -- slept nearly the whole time and there was never a peep out of him. We cleared security twice and I carried him with me through the scanner while his carrier went through the X-ray machine; Coco didn't even try to wiggle out of my arms. Because of a customs delay on arrival to Fort Lauderdale, we had a very tight connection and so the poor pup didn't get a potty break but still no complaints (or "accidents") at all!<br />
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When we got to Baltimore, my first concern (after meeting his new mom!) was to get Coco outside & out of the carrier so he could do his business; it had been a long day! We went out to the sidewalk and opened the carrier; Coco walked out, looked around, but was seemingly so overwhelmed by it all, that he walked right back in to the familiar & curled up in his carrier. Poor guy!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HuQ4FqWAE2g/WVmUnDkOcZI/AAAAAAAAXgo/BeHVXZDLSuI4wUj-e47fXAM4fzumFEXwgCLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B06%2B30%2BCoco%2B%2526%2Bbrother.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HuQ4FqWAE2g/WVmUnDkOcZI/AAAAAAAAXgo/BeHVXZDLSuI4wUj-e47fXAM4fzumFEXwgCLcBGAs/s200/2017%2B06%2B30%2BCoco%2B%2526%2Bbrother.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coco with his new brother</td></tr>
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Coco is now in a loving home in Maryland with two boxer siblings, having the time of his life. A happy ending for Coco!<br />
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Now I know that there are some who are probably wondering about a couple of things, as I have heard & had these questions myself.<br />
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<i>Aren't there dogs & cats in the US who need to be adopted? Why are we flying in animals from other countries as pets? </i>I volunteer with an SPCA in Maryland, which is always looking for families to adopt their animals, so it is ironic that I have brought a puppy from Colombia who was adopted by a family in Maryland. But I have also heard from friends that it can be much more challenging to adopt a pet in the US. Adopting overseas could be a faster & easier process for some, funnily enough. Others may feel more inspired to help a dog or cat from another country; isn't it great those animals too will also have loving homes? I thought there were good balanced arguments for both sides about this <a href="http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-rescue-overseas-arguments-for-against-sochi-russia-winter-olympics-stray-dogs" target="_blank">here</a>. One of the 'against' arguments calls for "dealing with the causes [of stray animals], such as neutering, animal control, and owner education." Definitely in agreement and <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/sagas-role-in-the-community/" target="_blank">Saga in Belize</a>, and other groups also, do this as well. [2019 note: <a href="https://www.cartagenapaws.com/" target="_blank">Cartagena Paws </a>has also started a spay/neuter program.]<br />
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<i>Shouldn't we be helping people rather than animals? </i>Shouldn't we be helping both? And in some ways by helping animals, you're helping people too. Belize's <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/" target="_blank">Saga Humane Society</a>, for example, has an education program visiting schools to teach kids how animals should be treated & cared for (animal abuse is not uncommon, unfortunately). And by teaching these kids compassion for animals, they learn more about compassion in general, with the goal of having a more compassionate society overall. [2019 note: <a href="https://www.cartagenapaws.com/" target="_blank">Cartagena Paws</a> is fundraising towards an education program also.]<br />
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Other thoughts/comments welcome!<br />
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Interested in being a flight volunteer for a pet? You can read more about it <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/that-rescue-dog-doesnt-need-a-home-he-needs-a-flight-companion-to-get-there/2016/11/17/ca2d360a-922a-11e6-a6a3-d50061aa9fae_story.html?tid=a_inl&utm_term=.dad4b1bf9982" target="_blank">here</a>. There is a list of organizations around the world looking for flight volunteers <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/animal-rescue-centers-want-you-to-be-a-flight-volunteer/2016/11/17/3a210d3c-a203-11e6-8d63-3e0a660f1f04_story.html?tid=a_inl&utm_term=.901bb9dc0145" target="_blank">here</a>, although it is a limited list; there are definitely more such groups out there, including:<br />
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*South America: several in <a href="http://exploreinspired.com/dogs-in-south-america/" target="_blank">this post</a><br />
*Belize: <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/" target="_blank">Saga in San Pedro, </a>Ambergris Caye<br />
*Mexico: <a href="https://tailsofmexico.weebly.com/" target="_blank">Tails of Mexico</a> and <a href="https://www.theranchchapala.com" target="_blank">The Ranch</a> in the Lake Chapala area<br />
*<a href="https://www.centralamerica.com/living/daily-life/rescuing-street-dogs-in-costa-rica/" target="_blank">Costa Rica</a><br />
*<a href="http://www.potcakeplace.com/puppies-needing-homes/courier" target="_blank">Turks & Caicos</a><br />
*Thailand: <a href="https://www.soidog.org/" target="_blank">Soi Dog Foundation</a>; there are two Facebook groups (one <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/926088770778420" target="_blank">here </a>and another <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/504130289622324/" target="_blank">here</a>) for those flying from Thailand to anywhere in the world, although mainly to Europe and the US/Canada.<br />
General flight volunteer needs in <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/228453267636759/" target="_blank">this Facebook group</a>.<br />
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*<span style="background-color: white; orphans: 2; widows: 2;"><span face="system-ui, -apple-system, system-ui, .SFNSText-Regular, sans-serif" style="color: #1c1e21;">Shenzhen, China: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pg/karunarescuechina" target="_blank">Karuna Rescue</a> (needs <span style="caret-color: rgb(28, 30, 33);">flight</span> volunteers out of Hong Kong)</span></span></div>
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<i>Learn more about Cartagena Paws in <a href="https://soundcloud.com/colombiacalling/200-cartagena-paws-rescuing" target="_blank">this Colombia Calling podcast</a>!</i><br />
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<br />Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-86756194146551472162017-06-15T15:16:00.000-05:002018-05-11T07:10:33.104-05:00A Delicious Night in a Colombian Jail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NXvdyR2XTaw/WULkXNLDQfI/AAAAAAAAXdA/0ud-3Al8mDcmRVCmqau0eG_HumW-zVrFQCLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B06%2B14%2BRestaurante%2BInterno%252C%2BSan%2BDiego%252C%2BCartagena%2BA%2BBarb%2Boutside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NXvdyR2XTaw/WULkXNLDQfI/AAAAAAAAXdA/0ud-3Al8mDcmRVCmqau0eG_HumW-zVrFQCLcBGAs/s320/2017%2B06%2B14%2BRestaurante%2BInterno%252C%2BSan%2BDiego%252C%2BCartagena%2BA%2BBarb%2Boutside.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have always been a bit curious about Cartagena’s women’s prison, located within the Old City walls just a half a block from the trendy Plaza San Diego (and a block from where I lived while teaching here). I have walked by the jail countless times, often seeing small signs of the women’s lives through the bars on the second floor above — sheets tied up to block the strong Caribbean sun, clothes hanging to dry, a hand of someone presumably gazing out at the sky above. The depressing sign above the entry states visitors are allowed Saturdays & Sundays, entering between 9 & noon and leaving by 3 pm. All a stark contrast to the charming architecture & Caribbean colors of most of the rest of the <a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/285" target="_blank">UNESCO world heritage site</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://caracol.com.co/emisora/2016/09/05/cartagena/1473027649_558807.html" target="_blank">Reports</a> state that the prison was built for 50 but now houses 180+ and is to be moved from its highly sought after (& high priced) walled city location; it is steps from the luxury Hotel Sofitel Santa Clara and numerous $$$$ restaurants.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"I believe in second chances"</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Despite this potential imminent move of the <i>Carcel de Mujeres de San Diego</i>, <a href="http://restauranteinterno.com/en/menu-en" target="_blank">Restaurante Interno</a> opened its doors late last year and not only adds to the culinary offerings of the Old City, but is a prison rehabilitation program as well. It provides practical training for inmates so they have marketable skills upon release, plus funds other prison projects improving conditions & prospects for the inmates.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was finally able to check out the restaurant last night & it was a delicious, while at times humbling, experience! The food was good and the setting pretty, despite the seemingly (although given the circumstances understandably) unwelcoming nature of the restaurant entrance -- a locked metal door which is opened and closed by a guard. The servers wear t-shirts that say "I believe in second chances" and plated food is passed to them from the kitchen through slots in a gate.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Top chefs donated recipes and helped train the women to prepare and cook them. A prison garden and bakery supply the restaurant, as well as provide additional training opportunities for the inmates. Those who work there earn (limited) funds to send home to families. <i>Segundas oportunidades</i> is written on the entry wall to the restaurant and referenced on the t-shirt backs of restaurant staff; "second chances" are being offered for these women.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ti4SC6mr7bo/WULlVuL2lqI/AAAAAAAAXdI/Xw6SxkOproEwJXA3kc96k00FSYZspPX2ACLcBGAs/s1600/2017%2B06%2B14%2BRestaurante%2BInterno%252C%2BSan%2BDiego%252C%2BCartagena%2BD%2BDessert%2521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ti4SC6mr7bo/WULlVuL2lqI/AAAAAAAAXdI/Xw6SxkOproEwJXA3kc96k00FSYZspPX2ACLcBGAs/s200/2017%2B06%2B14%2BRestaurante%2BInterno%252C%2BSan%2BDiego%252C%2BCartagena%2BD%2BDessert%2521.jpg" width="200" /></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For more information on this Cartagena restaurant, see the brief story on their <a href="http://restauranteinterno.com/en/menu-en" target="_blank">site</a> and also an AP article <a href="http://globalnews.ca/news/3202425/prison-for-women-becomes-colombias-trendy-new-restaurant/" target="_blank">here</a>. A quick search found similar type eateries in <a href="http://www.ingalera.it/en/" target="_blank">Italy</a> & <a href="http://theclinkcharity.org/the-clink-restaurants/" target="_blank">Britain</a> too. Should you find yourself in any of these areas, give the restaurants a try! And maybe there are more? Please comment if you find one!</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">P.S. For those who are curious as to what the inside of the Cartagena women's prison looks like, see photos I found on Facebook <a href="https://www.facebook.com/AkiroPalacio14/posts/10212448950756883" target="_blank">here</a>. 2018 update: video footage from the restaurant & inside the prison can be seen <a href="https://www.circa.com/story/2018/01/10/travel/this-colombian-womens-prison-is-running-a-restaurant-behind-its-bars-to-help-inmates-reintegrate-into-society" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></i>Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-13405632461905474302015-09-30T11:55:00.001-05:002018-04-17T07:48:55.250-05:00Need your luggage fixed? Recommendation for you here<div class="p1">
Ah, I’m back “home” in Cartagena for a few weeks. It’s been fun reacquainting myself with the maze of Old City streets, drinking tropical fruit drinks, eating coconut rice, catching up with people, watching the Caribbean fisherman, and <span class="s1"><strike>sweating in</strike></span> relishing the heat….</div>
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But more on all of that in a later post. What I may be most thrilled about is that I brought here with me two suitcases which had been deemed throwaways and they are now back in full working order!!</div>
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Excuse the “country dropping”, but while traveling in Europe last year, I used my sturdy Rick Steves roll aboard suitcase. In Spain, the rubber tread came off of one of the wheels. “Ay perdone señora, but I am sorry, that cannot be fixed” I was told at repair shops I visited. No biggie; I dealt with the crookedly rolling bag. </div>
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<span class="s2">In Italy, while running from one train to catch another, one of the suitcase “feet” fell off. “</span><span class="s3">Mi dispiace, signora, no repair possible.” N</span>ow I had a bag that stood even more lopsided—if I forgot to stand it up by a wall, the bag was on the ground. Could be dangerous should an unsuspecting toddler walk by; I need to do something.</div>
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In the U.S., a call to the Rick Steves store said replacement wheels and feet were not available, but they’d be happy to sell me a new bag. “But it’s still functional!”, as <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com.co/2014/09/international-nomad.html" target="_blank">a London friend of mine</a> said. She was right….why are we often told that the best way to "fix" a broken item is to replace it? I knew just where it could be fixed: there are guys in Cartagena who have a street workshop right in front of the ATM I always used.</div>
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Fast forward to now and my spur of the moment trip to Colombia. Not only am I here to update myself for <a href="http://www.vacationrentalscartagena.com/" target="_blank">my vacation rental work</a>, and all the reasons above, but another goal was to get my bag working like new again!! I had brought along my sister’s “unfixable” roll aboard as well. Sure enough, went to my former bank & right in front of that I found Luis & his father, working away. A day later I had two fully functional rolling carry-ons.</div>
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So my recommendation to you? Come to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartagena,_Colombia" target="_blank">Cartagena</a> for sure — it’s a UNESCO world heritage site well worth a visit, <a href="http://www.vacationrentalscartagena.com/how-to-get-to-cartagena/" target="_blank">easy to get to</a>, & the exchange rate is currently in most tourists' favor. But as a bonus, bring your broken luggage along with you, visit Talabartería Luis & head home with a “new” bag!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luis's father told me he has been working here for some 40 years!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They fix luggage, briefcases, purses & leather paintings. Located in front of Davivienda bank on Panama St</td></tr>
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-74639141870120528352015-09-11T13:20:00.001-05:002015-09-12T07:51:01.050-05:00Border crossings by land, water & air<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maya temple tops peek out of the jungle<br />
Tikal National Park, Guatemala</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When I last left you all, my handful of faithful readers (thank you!! :), I was headed to Guatemala. My California-based friend Sara was meeting me for this trip; <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/09/travels-with-sara.html" target="_blank">she & I have traveled together at various times</a> since the early 80s, and our arrangement for meeting up was just like in the old days: meet </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">at</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> 9:30 am on July 1 </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">at the Benque Viejo bus stop (the end of the line in Belize & just before the Guatemala border)</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. We had no way of contacting each other by phone, text, or email in the 24 hours prior to our arranged meet up time (crazy that something like that sounds almost nerve-wracking these days — 24 hours incommunicado!!). But guess what? Everything went fine!! I got to our meeting spot early, took out a book, didn’t get concerned when 9:30 am came & went, and gave Sara a big hug when she arrived at 10:30. We should all try every once in a while to live as if we can't connect with everyone instantaneously -- make a plan & pull out a book if someone runs late!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Highlights of July travels in Guatemala & Mexico:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*The bus stop where Sara & I met up was a mile or so from the Belize/Guatemala border. As we’d both been on buses for a bit, we decided to walk that mile while catching up. We went through the border formalities and then once across, walked into the Guatemala border town to catch the bus for our next leg. That is, I am pretty sure, the first time I have ever walked from one country to another.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rooftop" is not my preferred seat on a van!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="s1">*<a href="http://www.tikalnationalpark.org/">Tikal National Park</a>, Guatemala</span>, <span class="s1">a (at one point quite powerful) ancient Maya kingdom from around 2000 BC to 1000 AD. Having been to other Maya ruin sites in the Yucatan and Belize, it’s amazing how different they all are in both architecture & layout. The temples here were higher & narrower than others I’d seen, and had decorative “combs” on the top, plus everything was very spread out in the jungle. We had great howler monkey sightings (& hearings) also — they sound almost lion-like!!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="s1">*Our trip from Guatemala across the border to Mexico: we had a 90 mile/</span>4 hour (!!) van trip to La Técnica, a tiny village on the Usumacinta River (which forms the border with Mexico in this area of NW Guatemala). No chickens in the van, but usually there was a passenger or two on the roof; travels like this are everyday for many people in the world—that’s kind of crazy to think about. At the literal end of the road, we took a 3 minute boat trip across the Usumacinta to Mexico; a rare border crossing by water for me! At these types of little-used border crossings you have to consciously make sure to get your appropriate </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">exit & entry </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">stamps as there are no gates or buildings on either side that you are required to go through; here we (read “Sara”, gracias!) made sure we knew where to go to get the appropriate stamps in Guatemala & then Mexico.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yaxchilán Maya site, on the Usumacinta River, Mexico</td></tr>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*Visiting the <a href="https://www.locogringo.com/mexico/ways-to-play/mayan-ruins-archaeological-sites/yaxchilan-ruins/" target="_blank">Maya ruins of Yaxchilán</a>, Mexico, which involves a ~40 minute boat trip up the jungle river (with sunning crocodiles sighted on the way) and then suddenly coming upon this Maya ruin popping out of the jungle on the riverbank. As a friend said, we felt like Indiana Joans(es :) exploring this site!!</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*<a href="https://alexyraultours.wordpress.com/">A day tour to the indigenous villages of San Juan Chamula & Zinacantán</a> in Chiapas, Mexico, the most interesting aspect for me being learning about the religion of the people of San Juan Chamula, which is a form of Christianity with indigenous practices woven into it. Their church looks typical from the outside, but inside is very different: no pews, pine needles strewn all over the floor, the saints wear mirrors on their chests, and St John the Baptist (patron saint of the town) is front & center at the alter with Jesus off to one side. The church is not used for services, but is used nearly every day by shamans who come with small groups to cure illnesses, solve problems, etc., by lighting candles, chanting, drinking certain drinks (alcoholic & non), & using eggs and chickens (which enter the church alive but do not leave that way). It was fascinating to see some of this going on; you are not allowed to take pictures inside the church but some images can be found online.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3LhEy9_yeAg/VfLucTp_izI/AAAAAAAAO8k/zlS5S894ThI/s1600/Chamula%2Bchurch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="147" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3LhEy9_yeAg/VfLucTp_izI/AAAAAAAAO8k/zlS5S894ThI/s400/Chamula%2Bchurch.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chamula church photo from the web</td></tr>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*Depending on how you determine “largest” (by size of base? height? volume?), Mexico has a couple of the largest pyramids in the world, right up there with Egypt. About 2 hours southeast of Mexico City, we visited <a href="http://www.puebla-mexico.com/cholula-more-than-just-a-hot-sauce/" target="_blank">Cholula</a> (Puebla), which is the home of one of the largest pyramids ever built, although much of it is still underneath a hillside. Outside of Mexico City is the ancient Mesoamerican city of <a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/414" target="_blank">Teotihuacan,</a> also well-known for its large pyramids. What amazing things to see (& climb!)!</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CpttFOctdSs/VfLurxcFhLI/AAAAAAAAO8s/5eiomIrKfIc/s1600/P7150020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CpttFOctdSs/VfLurxcFhLI/AAAAAAAAO8s/5eiomIrKfIc/s320/P7150020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Norell atop the Temple of the Sun <br />
(Temple of the Moon in the background), Teotihuacan</td></tr>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*Mexico City was a pleasant surprise! I saw no great evidence of the expected bad pollution & crime, beyond what would normally be found in a big city (and there are over 20 million people in “el DF”--Distrito Federal). It was easy to get around in the extensive subway system (a bargain at 5 pesos/trip, currently about 3 US cents). There are a TON of museums in the city & I loved learning more about Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo, Leon Trotsky, regional archeology, and Mexican history. It was interesting, for example, in the history museums to read about the “American Invasion of Mexico.” What was that? Oh, in my school history books it was called the Mexican-American War, but yes, it does indeed seem like it was an invasion of another country!</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*Visiting the quaint colonial towns of Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, and Querétero (although if you go, visit them in the reverse order to be progressively more impressed by each one). They each played key roles in the early 1800’s fight for Mexican independence from Spain and are historically interesting as well as beautiful.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Catharine, NYC friend, in San Miguel de Allende</td></tr>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*Catching up with friends! Not only did I get to spend two weeks traveling with college friend Sara, but in Mexico City I met up with US-Mexican friend Norell, whom I had met in Colombia (via a San Francisco friend, kind of a crazy connection), as well as Spanish Carlos, whom I first met while studying in Madrid in 1982 & who has a been living in Mexico for the past 20 some years. Also coincidentally, Catharine, a friend from my NYC days in the 80s & 90s, was coincidentally in Mexico at the same time and we spent some quality time together in San Miguel. I love being able to meet up with friends in such diverse places!!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After entering Guatemala by foot, then Mexico by boat, I traveled by air to the U.S., where I first spent a great 10 days in Montana with immediate & extended family, catching up with each other & exploring the beauty of Glacier National Park. Then it was on to Maryland, where I have been cat sitting as well as spending time with my mother & catching up with other friends (one grade school friend I hadn’t seen in over 25 years!). Also took a trip to <a href="http://www.nps.gov/gett/index.htm" target="_blank">Gettysburg</a>, site of the U.S. Civil War battle. It is mind-numbing to think of the carnage that happened there; even worse that wars still continue and that we don't seem to learn from history. (And interesting to come across names of Federal & Confederate military officers whom I had seen referenced in the Mexican museums when talking about the </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“American Invasion of Mexico", which had taken place some 15 years prior. At that point, the officers were on the same side; in the Civil War, they were killing each other. Crazy.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now on to the next adventure -- on Sunday I fly to Colombia, where I’ll be for a month, mainly reacquainting myself with Cartagena & seeing what’s new in the past nearly 2 years since I left (and working, working, working! :). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">P.S. To see many of the locations mentioned above (& more) noted on Google maps, see the map <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zza9ju36zfmQ.kmIZEHRETLX8&usp=sharing" target="_blank">here</a>. Make sure the boxes for "Travels with Sara July 1-14" and "Mexico July 14-August 1" are checked (& the other categories unchecked if it makes it easier).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Madrid friend Carlos & family in Mexico City</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yvus1-zWLF8/VfLu3may6oI/AAAAAAAAO84/sedFKItjpf4/s1600/P8090008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yvus1-zWLF8/VfLu3may6oI/AAAAAAAAO84/sedFKItjpf4/s400/P8090008.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking at Upper Grinnell Lake, Glacier National Park, Montana</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3NxCNTvuIeU/VfL4FmwgJWI/AAAAAAAAO9g/pNDCMHmzsG4/s1600/2015%2B08%2Bwith%2BJake%2Bthe%2Bcat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3NxCNTvuIeU/VfL4FmwgJWI/AAAAAAAAO9g/pNDCMHmzsG4/s400/2015%2B08%2Bwith%2BJake%2Bthe%2Bcat.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cat sitting my new BFF Jake!</td></tr>
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-30946610744868102222015-06-30T11:22:00.002-05:002022-03-20T11:11:14.442-05:00Un-Belize-able!!!<div class="p1">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uRP_gnle0w4/VZImvZNluLI/AAAAAAAAOT4/JD3jjfcAK5g/s1600/2015%2B05%2B27%2BMarco%2BGonzales%2BMaya%2Bsite%2Bwith%2BJan%2B3.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uRP_gnle0w4/VZImvZNluLI/AAAAAAAAOT4/JD3jjfcAK5g/s320/2015%2B05%2B27%2BMarco%2BGonzales%2BMaya%2Bsite%2Bwith%2BJan%2B3.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain & I cooling ourselves off with handmade palm fans at<br />
Marcos Gonzalez Maya Site<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> on Ambergris Caye</span></td></tr>
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How did it take me so long to explore mainland Belize? Oh I know…I got sucked into the “laid back, island time” atmosphere & had a hard time extricating myself from the island of Ambergris Caye during <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2014/12/apparently-im-island-girl.html" target="_blank">my 3 month stay in San Pedro, Belize last fall</a>. It is indeed tough to leave; I returned to the island this year in early May to pet sit for a month, and almost, *almost*, extended my stay there again. </div>
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<span class="s1">The relaxation all starts when you arrive on the island via a Belizean domestic airline puddle jumper flight from the 70s: there is zero, ZERO, luggage screening. Just drop your bag here & get on board, keep your shoes…um flip flops…on & bring all the liquids you want. No body zapper to walk through either, just help yourself to the complimentary coffee & tea. YAY!! </span></div>
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<span class="s1">My “month on the island” highlights: </span><br />
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*Caught up with island friends as well as friend Iain who came in from the US for a couple of weeks, also to pet sit!</div>
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<span class="s1">*Did lots of cat cuddling & dog walking (both for my "charges" as well as volunteering again at the shelter)</span></div>
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<span class="s1">*Helped out at a new (for me) school in San Pedro, which is now also a Pack for a Purpose partner with the condos I work with on the island (more info <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/giving-back/" target="_blank">here</a>; definitely check out <a href="http://www.packforapurpose.org/" target="_blank">Pack for a Purpose</a> next time you’re traveling to a developing country!)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Great Blue Hole</td></tr>
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<span class="s1">*Took a gorgeous aerial tour out over the Belize Barrier Reef to see the Great Blue Hole, which is basically a cenote (limestone sinkhole) such as the ones we’d seen in the Yucatan mentioned in <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2015/05/getting-my-flip-flop-tan-back.html" target="_blank">my previous post</a>, but this one is in the sea. It’s 980 feet (300 m) across & 400 feet (120 m) deep, in the middle of a shallow section of the Belizean Great Barrier Reef system, so you really see the color contrast of the deep hole with the shallow reef; it’s a popular scuba destination </span>made famous by Jacques Cousteau in the 70s.</div>
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<span class="s1">FINALLY, I boated over to Terra Firma in early June to explore more of the country. I’m so glad I did — it’s unBelizeable :) !! Belize is ~185 miles (300 km) long & ~75 miles (120 km) wide, about the size of the US state of Massachusetts. But it’s much less densely populated, with a population of only about 311,000 (vs ~6.7 million in Massachusetts). Think of all that leaves room for: jungle, caves, nature reserves, mountains, Maya ruins, WILDLIFE (jaguars people, jaguars!)....!! However, while the country is relatively small, there are really only four main paved highways & the going is not necessarily speedy. But it’s always interesting!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IyGH244Kw4A/VZIYg2KOIoI/AAAAAAAAOTE/leRpUOGCHgY/s1600/P6130058.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IyGH244Kw4A/VZIYg2KOIoI/AAAAAAAAOTE/leRpUOGCHgY/s320/P6130058.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging with a jaguar at the <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Cockscomb sanctuary</span></td></tr>
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<i><span class="s1">(</span>Click <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zza9ju36zfmQ.kmIZEHRETLX8&usp=sharing" target="_blank">here</a> for a map noting the four main highways as well as </i><i>locations mentioned in this post</i><i>.)</i></div>
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<span class="s1">I’ve done most of my travel on the long distance buses, which are retired US school buses painted a variety of colors. Under-bus & overhead luggage racks have been added, although my backpack normally gets shoved behind the last seat of the bus (you know, where the kids who smoked sat). Remember also doing emergency escape drills out the back door of the school bus? That’s now an unofficial passenger rear entry/exit. And those seats that are made with two kids in mind? If the bus is crowded, and we’re near a police checkpoint, sometimes three adults need to squeeze on to those seats or you need to crouch in the aisle so the police don’t see that the bus is overcrowded. Yep, fools them every time.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Another great aspect of local travel is discovering new (to me) transport methods, such as the hand-cranked ferry! I’ve been on three so far as a means to cross a river, twice in a bus & once on foot. Men literally turn a crank all day long to get the ferry moving along a cable which is strung from riverbank to riverbank. (These go along with the hand-cranked Swing Bridge in Belize City, which is manually opened & closed, now only for special occasions. Very few left in the world!) </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Which tortilla was made by the gringa?</td></tr>
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<span class="s1">Mainland highlights have been:</span></div>
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<span class="s1">*Learning more about the Maya, both past & present. In southern Belize especially there are a lot of Maya communities. In one I visited a <a href="https://www.sanpedroscoop.com/2013/12/big-falls-punta-gorda-toledo-living-maya-experience.html" target="_blank">“Living Maya”</a> home with displays of how the Maya lived, many until just a few decades ago, such as sleeping on beds made of bark, using gourds as water bottles, speaking only their native language (Kek’chi or Mopan in Belize), etc. As part of the visit you help make the lunch that is to be served; needless to say my tortillas did not come out looking anything like the round, flat pancake-like bread it was supposed to be!! (And a couple of local 6 year olds out right laughed at my final products!! :)</span></div>
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<span class="s1">*Realizing all the wildlife that’s roaming the country! I visited the <a href="http://www.belizezoo.org/" target="_blank">Belize Zoo</a>, “the best little zoo in the world”, which houses only native rescue animals. It has toucans, deer, monkeys, crocs, tapir, gibnuts, macaws, jaguars, and more. I spent a day in <a href="http://www.belizeaudubon.org/?page_id=3605" target="_blank">the world’s first jaguar sanctuary</a> (but of course saw no jaguars, nor expected to—they’re nocturnal & normally steer clear of humans when they can), hiking, “river sliding”, & learning about jungle plants & creatures. (Did you see Mel Gibson’s “Apacolypto” movie? The scene where the woman uses an ant’s jaws as sutures for a cut? Real, & we saw those mighty pincers in action!) Heard the roar of the howler monkeys & saw them literally hanging around as I wandered places.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I1jnbL05cGI/VZIbBay4uGI/AAAAAAAAOTg/WnyCr1zNlks/s1600/P6160015.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I1jnbL05cGI/VZIbBay4uGI/AAAAAAAAOTg/WnyCr1zNlks/s320/P6160015.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to kayak through caves!!!</td></tr>
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<span class="s1">*There is an amazing number of caves here! These caves are all pretty much now archeological sites as there are numerous Maya artifacts (bones, stone tools, pottery) found in them. For the Maya, the caves were Xibalba: entrances to the underworld & home of some gods. They were used a lot for ceremonial purposes. I did three different guided day trips through caves and would love to do more. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">—First was <a href="http://mayaguide.bz/cave-kayaking/" target="_blank">a kayaking trip through the Nohoch Chen Caves Branch Archaeological Reserve</a> through the dark, with rapids, stalactites, etc. </span></div>
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<span class="s1">—Next was <a href="http://www.cavesbranch.com/belize-waterfalls" target="_blank">hiking up a river, in a cave, with 6 waterfalls</a>. I had always been a bit wary of rock climbing & had never tried it, but it was baptism by fire here in this adventure! At least we would only be rock climbing on the way up; on the way back down we JUMPED from the top of the falls in to the pools below. (This would never fly in the States—are we too coddled?)</span></div>
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<span class="s1">—And finally I toured <a href="http://www.carloscaveman.com/tours/atm-cave-belize.html" target="_blank">Actun Tunichil Muknal</a>, popularly known as the ATM cave. This involves swimming, walking through water, squeezing through narrow spaces, a bit of rock climbing, and the like. At the end you are in a huge cavern used by the Maya for human sacrifice, blood letting, & other ceremonies. It was truly awe-inspiring to think what had happened in that cave—especially as you actually see the bones of sacrifice victims, including a complete skeleton. (If interested, there’s a great detailed write up <a href="http://www.sanpedroscoop.com/2013/10/atm-cave-cayo-belize-mayan-archaeology-hiking.html" target="_blank">here</a> with photos of one person’s experience on this tour.) </span></div>
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And lest you think I'm not working -- of course I am! As a result of this trip I'm also able to advise & book folks for accommodations & tours in the jungle in addition to <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">island accommodations</a>. Let me know when you want to come to Belize!<br />
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<span class="s1">Tomorrow — on to Guatemala!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A farewell view of Belize from the top of </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">El Castillo, Xunantunich </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Maya site near the border with Guatemala</span></div>
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com1Belize17.189877 -88.49765000000002113.3092195 -93.661224000000018 21.0705345 -83.334076000000024tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-43572293408357415642015-05-03T19:16:00.002-05:002015-09-11T11:06:06.236-05:00Getting my flip-flop tan back<div style="text-align: right;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2IMYLKT_ArE/VUaIv1RdhlI/AAAAAAAANcU/HAFEipRAB1M/s1600/2015%2B01%2B25%2BXCskiing%2Bwith%2BJacob%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2IMYLKT_ArE/VUaIv1RdhlI/AAAAAAAANcU/HAFEipRAB1M/s1600/2015%2B01%2B25%2BXCskiing%2Bwith%2BJacob%2B2.JPG" width="323" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What is this white stuff we're on??!</td></tr>
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Silly me, I spent the winter in the U.S., mostly in the northeast experiencing more snow & cold than I have in this century! But it was great to spend
time with a variety of family & friends, both in the frozen northeast & then
later while thawing out in the beautiful California weather. I am
especially glad that my flexible lifestyle allowed me to do several days
of kid sitting for my cousin in Connecticut & my brother in So Cal —
what a fun way to spend quality time with the “cousinettes”, nieces
& nephew! (I hope the kids had as much fun as Aunt Barb did! :)<br />
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While in California, in addition to catching up with more friends & family, I “lightened my load” — did some serious work on having less stuff. Back in 2011, when I started this 6-12 monthlong venture (ha, that was 48 months ago!!), I was pretty good about getting rid of a lot of things, but I still had a packed 4x6 foot storage unit. That has now been emptied: family heirloom/antiques are now in my brother’s new home; 40 years of photos which were in 8 boxes worth of photo albums have
been taken out, photo by photo, organized into boxes, and await scanning (yes, I’ll get to it, probably via a
service); Monica got lots of stuff to sell at a garage sale (and I hope some child is now enjoying my vintage 60’s/70’s
collection of Barbies--sniff, sniff!). There were various letters, journals, and other
memorabilia from high school, college, & my 20s which were fun to
read through and then send on to appropriate friends who
would appreciate them. Ha ha they get to store my stuff now :).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://melathalon.blogspot.com/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="374" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VzDX5oFw9uo/VUaOgsORq7I/AAAAAAAANck/93Baq59Yrjk/s1600/2015%2B03%2B21%2BMelissa%2C%2BEileen%2C%2BBarb%2B2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the SF Bay Area working my 1st TNT SAG stop -- *great* way to catch up with folks: <a href="http://melathalon.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Melissa</a>, Eileen, Merla, Dennis, Susie, Steve, Steve, <a href="http://pages.teamintraining.org/gba/rsvp215/crawford" target="_blank">Sarah, Kieran, Neil</a>, KSue, Barb, Tom, Shirley, Jon, Anna, Ross, John.....and MORE!</td></tr>
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Storage unit emptied = time to use the passport again; it had been gathering dust for 4+ months! First stop: México. My sister Carol-Ann, her 12 year old son Jacob, & I had a great l week exploring the Yucatán Peninsula — colonial cities, Maya ruins, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cenote" target="_blank">cenotes</a> (loved the ones with rope swings, even if I was <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/107631487011398850275/albums/6142493142915816737/6142814356669429458?authkey=CKHK1uX5uNOsdA&pid=6142814356669429458&oid=107631487011398850275" target="_blank">not the most graceful of "Tarzans"</a>!), & up close & personal swimming with sea turtles! The temps were over 100 F (40 C) most of the week, & fortunately we were able to plan a swim somewhere every day.<br />
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The heat has thankfully broken & I am now back in Valladolid, a city of some 50,000 in the middle of the Yucatán Peninsula. Mostly I’m catching up on work (marketing <a href="http://www.vacationrentalscartagena.com/" target="_blank">Colombia</a> & <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">Belize</a> vacation rentals) as well as planning what’s next, but I'm also enjoying wandering around the colonial streets. Flip-flops are once again my constant footwear -- how quickly those tan lines return! <br />
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What’s next? At the end of the week I’ll make my way back to La Isla Bonita (aka Ambergris Caye, Belize) with a day or two each in Chetumal, the coastal city on the Mexican side of the border, and Corozal, the city on the Belizean side. Then I am back in <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">San Pedro</a> for a month of pet sitting & laid back island life — friend Iain will meet up with me again there, spending 2 weeks at his own pet sitting gig right down the beach from me. (Iain's met up with me over these nomadic years in Ecuador & Peru as well as now Belize for the 2nd time.) After a bit of island time, I’ll explore mainland Belize, then meet up with friend & <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/09/travels-with-sara.html" target="_blank">previous travel buddy Sara</a> in northern Guatemala and we'll travel a bit in Guatemala & Mexico.<br />
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August will find me back in the U.S., meeting up with family in Montana to explore Glacier National Park & more. We’ll see what the future brings after that….I have a few ideas--there's a lot of the world I haven't yet explored & have laptop, will travel! <br />
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I am VERY lucky!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TTYZCooOs80/VUaP-wASrGI/AAAAAAAANcw/JBGtvB1dtRE/s1600/P4230100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TTYZCooOs80/VUaP-wASrGI/AAAAAAAANcw/JBGtvB1dtRE/s1600/P4230100.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacob, CA & I biking the beach in Tulúm, Mexico!</td></tr>
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<br />Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-88230887630276792422014-12-03T10:03:00.000-05:002015-06-30T11:45:01.435-05:00Apparently I’m an island girl<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pooch attack!</td></tr>
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I arrived at La Isla Bonita, aka Ambergris Caye, Belize, in late August intending to stay 7.5 weeks, the length of my house/cat sitting gig. Despite the gorgeous setting, I honestly thought my first few days there that being there for several weeks would be l o n g. After all, this is the city gal slash world traveler, and here I was in a small town with lots of dirt roads on an *island*!!<br />
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As mid-October rolled around, I decided the relaxed lifestyle wasn’t so bad after all….I was enjoying the volunteering (mainly tutoring at the schools--liked being back teaching--& walking the <a href="http://sagahumanesociety.org/" target="_blank">shelter dogs</a>—they are not exactly “leash trained”, but it was a great workout & a blast, plus social time with friends at breakfast on the beach afterwards!). I was becoming more & more knowledgeable about Ambergris Caye in order to help the guests I was booking for <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">Sunset Beach Resort</a>. And if I took off to travel, I’d have to *plan* that!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEdAnrAEvZc/VH51Vx_KhGI/AAAAAAAAMmI/moWTdVWrYvY/s1600/IMG_9823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEdAnrAEvZc/VH51Vx_KhGI/AAAAAAAAMmI/moWTdVWrYvY/s1600/IMG_9823.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My high school after school group (one camera shy :)</td></tr>
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So, when the homeowners returned, I moved into a little apartment in another area of the island for a month. I figured I’d travel the last couple of weeks in November before my return flight to the U.S. and that would be fine. BUT I actually put off my departure from the island TWO more times until it finally happened—I have a flight to catch from Cancun back to the U.S. tomorrow so must get there!! (Although I was asked by an islander: “Couldn’t you change that flight?” :)<br />
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What kept me on the island? <br />
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*I haven’t worn anything but flip flops & sand shoes for three months — although wearing anything on my feet at all made me “dressed up” in comparison to the locals, who often don’t wear shoes (even the national Minister of Tourism & Culture was barefoot at a presentation on a national holiday). Tonight I will put on sneakers and see how I fare.<br />
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*The people are also the nicest around: expats (& there are many of them) and locals alike.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-krHLHOeHBVA/VH52mSt9TFI/AAAAAAAAMmc/gwTtqW8wFyI/s1600/IMG_0009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-krHLHOeHBVA/VH52mSt9TFI/AAAAAAAAMmc/gwTtqW8wFyI/s1600/IMG_0009.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biking the beach with Iain</td></tr>
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*Biking on the beach! I’ve been a cyclist for many years & at first was annoyed at the road conditions (not all are paved and even those that are leave a bit to be desired), but thought it was better than the sandy beach. But then what’s a beach cruiser for if not to roll along and admire the sea with one eye while watching out for driftwood, dogs & kids with the other? So what if it was the rainy season & that often meant mud/sand splattered legs, clothing, & day pack — little badges of honor!! Loved it & may miss that the most.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F0AjOeQmxHs/VH53Cq1EYfI/AAAAAAAAMmk/WEY5tacgJJ8/s1600/IMG_0777.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F0AjOeQmxHs/VH53Cq1EYfI/AAAAAAAAMmk/WEY5tacgJJ8/s1600/IMG_0777.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bad photo, but croc holding will likely not happen again!</td></tr>
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*I learned & got *slightly* less freaked out about critters, and there were many that came closer to me than I might normally have liked: little lizards on the kitchen counter, crab crawling up my screen door, scorpion in my shoe, tarantula by my kitchen table…on the other hand, I willingly went on an educational crocodile boat tour & held a 2 foot croc in my hands! (Plus saw some AMAZING critters while snorkeling the barrier reef, including sea turtles, octopus, rays, not to mention swimming with sharks!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sZ3vs4GVPEk/VH54YsFpcgI/AAAAAAAAMmw/kFuK1BUXAH4/s1600/IMG_0193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sZ3vs4GVPEk/VH54YsFpcgI/AAAAAAAAMmw/kFuK1BUXAH4/s1600/IMG_0193.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mobile produce store!</td></tr>
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*At the last place I stayed, despite the muddy road, there were entrepreneurial folks delivering “take out” & offering home grocery service: the golf cart (main form of motorized transport on these small island roads) beeping outside at 8 am had breakfast burritos for you; the one at 11 am was a rolling produce stand—veggies, fruit, fresh herbs, eggs!!; and then at noon you had a hot meal of your choice — would you like fish, chicken or pork today with your rice & beans and salad?<br />
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I did make one day trip to the mainland in my three months of island living, the goal being to see the Maya ruin of Lamanai. Incredible structures those guys made! (Of course I watched Mel Gibson’s <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cz4nU5Iceao/VH57H9SC-TI/AAAAAAAAMnE/iv7AvuOouZE/s1600/IMG_0272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cz4nU5Iceao/VH57H9SC-TI/AAAAAAAAMnE/iv7AvuOouZE/s1600/IMG_0272.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atop a Maya temple!</td></tr>
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<u>Apocalypto</u>, based on the Maya just before the Spanish arrived here; ok so not totally accurate but still gives an idea of what things may have been like?) There is still lots more to be seen here about the Maya, so I will be back. (And TONS more to see & learn about in Belize!)<br />
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And yes, I am also making strides work-wise! My <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">Ambergris Caye vacation rentals site</a> is long last up & running, yet always a work in progress. I’ve also been able to combine my non-profit background with the accommodation booking work, and have connected both the <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/giving-back/" target="_blank">Belize</a> & <a href="http://www.vacationrentalscartagena.com/giving-back/" target="_blank">Colombia</a> vacation rentals to an organization called <a href="http://www.packforapurpose.org/" target="_blank">Pack for a Purpose</a> (which I wish I had thought to create--what a great idea, combining travel with easily helping the destination community!). Our guests now easily have the opportunity to support a community organization in an impoverished area of Cartagena and the humane society in San Pedro. I am working on more of “meaningful travel” opportunities for the future--there will be more blogging associated with that & the vacation rentals.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nw9Eg-VfNhQ/VH57fyIAMaI/AAAAAAAAMnM/fc8fxCY4c8Y/s1600/IMG_0096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nw9Eg-VfNhQ/VH57fyIAMaI/AAAAAAAAMnM/fc8fxCY4c8Y/s1600/IMG_0096.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With a few of the great people I met here (& dining right on the beach!)</td></tr>
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And now, I am off the island and heading back to the U.S. shortly. I’ll be there through the holidays & am not yet sure what 2015 will bring. However, keeping my "homeless" status for now! I’ll be back on La Isla Bonita for more pet sitting next year (house/pet sitting is now obviously fully on my list as a way to travel & live among the locals, so let me know if you’re ever in need of a sitter, no matter where you are! :) & figuring out the rest. Will keep you posted....!!</div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-63281202979815093302014-09-03T14:55:00.000-05:002014-09-04T09:40:22.835-05:00International Nomad<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LLlh4wl0zUw/VAaGHAN0sQI/AAAAAAAALpw/xOdYQfOgFHA/s1600/IMG_0082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LLlh4wl0zUw/VAaGHAN0sQI/AAAAAAAALpw/xOdYQfOgFHA/s1600/IMG_0082.jpg" height="200" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheering on USA in the World Cup</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Did you see this article in the NY Times this past weekend? “<a href="http://nyti.ms/1ppIBzB" target="_blank">Increasingly, Retirees Dump Their Possessions and Hit the Road</a>”</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">While I’m not a retiree (“<b>p</b>re”-tiree perhaps), the article described my life well in many ways!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">“international nomad”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">“…downsized to the extreme, choosing a life of travel.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">“While many…..ultimately return home or become expatriates, some live like vagabonds.” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ha! I’m a vagabond? “a person who wanders from place to place without a home or job” No! As one of my fellow travelers said in the article, “Where I am is home.” And I work online--that's a job, right? So I’ll take nomad: “a person who does not stay long in the same place; a wanderer.” Currently guilty. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Where have my wanderings taken me since March?</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AFMA9NYSZ38/VAaPAEglCjI/AAAAAAAALqM/noX3jrGJj80/s1600/DSC_0422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AFMA9NYSZ38/VAaPAEglCjI/AAAAAAAALqM/noX3jrGJj80/s1600/DSC_0422.JPG" height="230" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were about 40 of us there this year for the annual reunion on the Cape--yay for our hosts, the Tietjes!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKM8vmOpP5I/VAaFQmUPeBI/AAAAAAAALpY/tKHPpv6CR3o/s1600/IMG_9094%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EKM8vmOpP5I/VAaFQmUPeBI/AAAAAAAALpY/tKHPpv6CR3o/s1600/IMG_9094%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.JPG" height="305" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With friends + Mom in Seville!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">First, to the U.S., for highlights such as seeing my 11 year old nephew in <u>A Midsummer Night’s Dream</u>, spending a great week with family at an old Lake Placid camp, and catching up with college friends on the Cape at the <a href="http://www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/francis-tietje/2014-new-balance-falmouth-road-race" target="_blank">Falmouth Road Race</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I spent 3 months in Europe (!!), starting on the Iberian Peninsula for about 5 weeks: touring Portugal & Spain with my mom, catching up with old friends, “interning” with <a href="http://nubagestion.es/apartamentos.html" target="_blank">a great vacation rental group in Madrid</a> (if visiting Madrid </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">& need a recommended place to stay,</span> let me know), & trying to relearn how to conjugate verbs using “vosotros.” :) </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9B3DjA5kDlw/VAaFm4EWGXI/AAAAAAAALpg/Jd9z6BYi1Rg/s1600/IMG_9384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9B3DjA5kDlw/VAaFm4EWGXI/AAAAAAAALpg/Jd9z6BYi1Rg/s1600/IMG_9384.JPG" height="207" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Cinque Terre hiking </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Can a vagabond go on vacation? If so, I was on vacation in Italy & it was amazing. I did what needed to be done there: held up the Leaning Tower, tasted all the gelati that I could, sipped cappuccino in the mornings, and got sore muscles while hiking and taking in the fabulous Cinque Terre scenery. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OSlWbaXgrTk/VAaGAqsdenI/AAAAAAAALpo/-o-Zplzqalw/s1600/2014%2B06%2BWC%2BFans%2BBensberg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OSlWbaXgrTk/VAaGAqsdenI/AAAAAAAALpo/-o-Zplzqalw/s1600/2014%2B06%2BWC%2BFans%2BBensberg.jpg" height="246" title="" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">My German family picked the right team! :)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">In 1978-79, I took a “gap year” (if I can use the modern term!), living with a family and attending high school near Cologne, Germany. That was 35 years ago!! On this trip, I got to spend 2+ fantastic weeks with my extended German family (even stayed in my old room :) plus visit another German family who took me traveling with them during my exchange year. I (unintentionally of course, because what do I know about soccer??!) planned my Germany visit for the start of the World Cup, and so got to watch and cheer along with the future winners!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I have always done a pretty good job of keeping up with people over the years even from a distance, but it’s so much better to be able to visit with them “live.” The time in Europe was great for catching up with so many! Many people I met up with were from my 80s/90s days in New York City, and some I hadn’t seen in over 20 years. A gang of these folks were in Seville, Spain; a couple in Grenoble, France; others in London; and a few of us met up in Rathmullan, Ireland (& how convenient that our Rathmullan hosts recently opened <a href="http://kinnegarbrewing.ie/" target="_blank">Kinnegar Brewing</a>!). As a bonus, a TNT friend & her husband nicely moved to Oxford just so I could visit them in that beautiful city. :) </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">It has been a fabulous few months!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dq4qrVJ9yM4/VAaMft3ifaI/AAAAAAAALqE/NRdAg2_sNlM/s1600/2014%2B07%2B16%2BBarb%2B%26%2BJoyce%2BRathmullan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dq4qrVJ9yM4/VAaMft3ifaI/AAAAAAAALqE/NRdAg2_sNlM/s1600/2014%2B07%2B16%2BBarb%2B%26%2BJoyce%2BRathmullan.jpg" height="147" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">1991 NYC Roomies in Donegal</span></span><span class="fbPhotoTagList" id="fbPhotoSnowliftTagList"><span class="fcg"></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">As of last week, I have once again Headed South. I am currently in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye (aka Madonna's “Isla Bonita”), Belize, where I’ll be til mid/late October at least. I am cat sitting (thank you, kitty, for bringing me that *iguana*!!!) and as of next week will be doing some after school tutoring at the local high school. My main goal is to get to know “my” vacation rentals here better and get <a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/">Vacation-Rentals-Belize.com</a> to have the content that <a href="http://www.vacationrentalscartagena.com/">VacationRentalsCartagena.com</a> does! (Note shameless plug for both my sites :) After San Pedro, I’ll travel around Belize a bit and then continue on to the Yucatan. I’ve never actually been to Mexico but it’s about time. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iK82gOVzUNY/VAdrgibAxbI/AAAAAAAALqs/K8RzhQfzdEQ/s1600/2014%2B07%2B06%2BSara%2B%26%2BBarb%2BOlympic%2BVillage%2BLondon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iK82gOVzUNY/VAdrgibAxbI/AAAAAAAALqs/K8RzhQfzdEQ/s1600/2014%2B07%2B06%2BSara%2B%26%2BBarb%2BOlympic%2BVillage%2BLondon.jpg" height="176" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biking through London's Olympic Village with Sara</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntJ1g5Z5m00/VAdrggrSRtI/AAAAAAAALqw/FPeiCjgDIIE/s1600/2014%2B07%2B03%2BDeb%2B%26%2BBarb%2Bin%2BOxford.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ntJ1g5Z5m00/VAdrggrSRtI/AAAAAAAALqw/FPeiCjgDIIE/s1600/2014%2B07%2B03%2BDeb%2B%26%2BBarb%2Bin%2BOxford.jpg" height="173" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Deb in Oxford</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Stay tuned....!</span>Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-41533460034939984412014-03-23T15:59:00.000-05:002017-07-03T13:55:02.895-05:00Still here...!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ah, it's March, must be time for my annual blogpost. Yes, I have turned into not much of a blogger, eh?! But I'm still here, in the "south" (ie, Latin America)!<br />
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As a brief update:<br />
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I spent basically all of 2012 & 2013 living in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartagena,_Colombia" target="_blank">Cartagena, Colombia</a>, where I taught English at the <a href="http://www.colombocartagena.com/" target="_blank">Centro Colombo Americano</a>. It was the first time I'd ever taught & I really enjoyed it; I'm also glad I had taken the one month intense ESL teaching certificate program (CELTA) in San Francisco before I left there--it helped a lot. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2GH5WSsCiSY/Uy9D1Z-USfI/AAAAAAAAJ6s/83f7H2lpEqQ/s1600/IMG_5524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2GH5WSsCiSY/Uy9D1Z-USfI/AAAAAAAAJ6s/83f7H2lpEqQ/s1600/IMG_5524.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Ciudad Perdida with niece Carolin & friend Luisa!</td></tr>
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I was able to travel quite a bit in Colombia, both with friends (some living in Colombia, some who came to visit) and solo. It's a hugely diverse & fascinating country -- I highly recommend it! Just to mention some highlights: traveling with Spanish friends who live in Colombia (& whom I met during my junior year in Madrid 1981-82); when my "German niece" (from the family I lived with in Germany in 1978-79!) came to visit & we did the 5 day <a href="http://www.sfgate.com/travel/article/Colombia-s-Lost-City-may-be-next-Machu-Picchu-2344790.php" target="_blank">Ciudad Perdida hike</a> with friends; and also when my sister & her 11 year old son visited me in Cartagena--my nephew said it was the best week of his life. I love being an aunt! :)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yUHpPhTpJag/Uy9D97bDKyI/AAAAAAAAJ60/UaZ-qEjyZCY/s1600/IMG_8249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yUHpPhTpJag/Uy9D97bDKyI/AAAAAAAAJ60/UaZ-qEjyZCY/s1600/IMG_8249.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What 11 year old (& 50 something year olds!) wouldn't love a mud volcano?!</td></tr>
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Surprisingly, there was so much to see & do in Colombia I didn't venture much outside of that country, beyond trips back "home" (which could mean a few places) for special events. But I did get to Peru for a couple of weeks--Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley are all that they say it is and more--and Ecuador for a month. While in Ecuador last July, I volunteered for two weeks on the coast in the fishing village of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_L%C3%B3pez" target="_blank">Puerto López</a>, helping with a Spanish reading program in elementary schools, an after school kids' club, and teaching English.<br />
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When I decided that I was ready to move on from Colombia (after all, my 6 week stay there turned into over 2 years!!), I decided to go back to Puerto López to <a href="http://claraluna.com.ec/" target="_blank">volunteer again</a>. So here I am for a couple of months! I'll be moving on again soon, but perhaps I'll be back to Ecuador. I haven't yet made it to the Galapagos & that is definitely on my list.<br />
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And no, I haven't turned independently wealthy. I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to help out with some vacation rental apartments, something I can do totally online. I started doing this with some apartments located in Cartagena's Walled City in 2012, and a few months ago was able to add on renting out vacation condos in <a href="http://ambergriscaye.com/index.php" target="_blank">Ambergris Caye</a>, Belize. Check out my webpages, always works-in-progress:<br />
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<a href="http://www.vacationrentalscartagena.com/" target="_blank">www.VacationRentalsCartagena.com</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.vacation-rentals-belize.com/" target="_blank">www.Vacation-Rentals-Belize.com</a></div>
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The current plan is to travel more while maintaining the "rental business" thanks to the internet. Know anyone planning to visit Colombia or Belize? Please share my links! :)<br />
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Will try to make sure it's not another year before I update things again...meanwhile, I'll catch you on the road! (in Latin America? Europe? the U.S.? Who knows!!) Let the adventure continue.....Hasta pronto!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yX3790TMALQ/UyxmpAD8z1I/AAAAAAAAJ6E/ERYY6i0S7zM/s1600/IMG_8809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yX3790TMALQ/UyxmpAD8z1I/AAAAAAAAJ6E/ERYY6i0S7zM/s1600/IMG_8809.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teaching an English class on the beach with a fresh tropical juice in Puerto López!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reading with kids in Puerto López!</td></tr>
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<br />Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-40620707941883380052013-03-31T20:17:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:35:03.516-05:00You eat ants?<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wow, it's Easter again, or Semana Santa (Holy Week) as they call it in Spanish-speaking countries. <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/04/holy-week-in-colombia.html" target="_blank">Last Semana Santa</a> I traveled to the desert of La Guajira, northeast of Cartagena, and then a bit inland to Mompós, which is famous for it's Holy Week processions. I never thought I'd still be in Colombia a year later, but here I am, still with lots to do and see!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H5d8t1Z7Xb0/UVekUYkIETI/AAAAAAAAIQ0/91Nv0cVe8KU/s1600/IMG_7193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H5d8t1Z7Xb0/UVekUYkIETI/AAAAAAAAIQ0/91Nv0cVe8KU/s200/IMG_7193.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cabrera town square</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was arranged so that we wouldn't have to teach classes during Semana Santa at the Centro Colombo Americano. While the school was open for a couple of days during the week, we "overtaught" by several minutes each class period in the three weeks coming up to Semana Santa so we could make up time and take the entire week off. Fine by me! I headed out last Saturday night with a friend on a 13 hour overnight bus trip south to Bucaramanga, capital of the Santander department. From there we connected to another bus for a 2.5 hour trip to San Gil, "adventure sports capital" of Colombia, and then continued on to our third bus for an hour's trip to Cabrera, a small colonial pueblo. I had planned a 3-4 day hiking trip from small town to small town outside of San Gil, culminating with a hike down--and then up--the Chicamocha Canyon. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It not only takes a long time to get anyplace here, it's also hard to get information sometimes. So despite the fact that several guide books/online sites spoke about a 2-4 day hike between these small towns, information on the actual routes and accommodations in each spot was difficult to find -- for example, despite multiple inquiries to various tourist type places, I hadn't been able to find out if the pueblo of Cabrera had any kind of accommodations at all. However, upon hearing that we were looking for a place to stay, our friendly San Gil-to- Cabrera bus driver immediately called someone in the pueblo and had rooms for us booked at the one place in town. I needn't have worried!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F-usspCxsqs/UVekW_U4DzI/AAAAAAAAIRM/PHAcVbzxJpo/s1600/IMG_7182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F-usspCxsqs/UVekW_U4DzI/AAAAAAAAIRM/PHAcVbzxJpo/s200/IMG_7182.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing tejo</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ca</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">brera was cute! The few kids who were playing around the main square practiced their English with us: "Hello!" "Hi!" "How are you?" We also got to see the only other thing happening in town that night: a "tejo" game, a national sport based on an indigenous game. In a way it's kind of like horseshoes (or for the younger crowd, cornhole) -- you have to throw a little metal disc into a box of clay. In the middle of the box of clay is gunpowder, and if you hit it right you set off a little explosion. Fun!! Add to this the fact that everyone drinks beer while playing, and you have a *really* fun time. Alcohol plus gunpowder--gotta love it!?!?</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tx2pkWz3AG4/UVekd4QaWnI/AAAAAAAAIR8/jmfAwq2EVyc/s1600/IMG_7200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tx2pkWz3AG4/UVekd4QaWnI/AAAAAAAAIR8/jmfAwq2EVyc/s200/IMG_7200.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camino Real</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We started our trek the next day along the Camino Real, a trail originally used by the indigenous Guane people and then later by the Spanish. It was rebuilt in the late 1800s and still pretty well maintained. Our first 30 minutes or so of the trail was pretty much straight up -- great way to start the day! The plan was to hike ~2.5 hours to Barichara, known as "Colombia's prettiest town", but we ran into some locals partway along who gave us a ride half way to Barichara, and who were we to say no?</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melanie & the "chismosera"</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Along with these locals, who owned an artisan shop in Barichara, we met another super nice couple who own a family vacation home in the town. They invited us in for a glass of wine and to see their fabulously renovated home, complete with "chi</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">smosera" (if I'm remembering the word correctly?? it comes from "gossip"), which is a built in little nook just below and inside the windows that allow you to easily see what's going on in the street--this way you can of course keep up with what your neighbors are up to!!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mJnz42euZ4Y/UVekftTxVNI/AAAAAAAAISM/PxrmtzG6dlM/s1600/IMG_7213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mJnz42euZ4Y/UVekftTxVNI/AAAAAAAAISM/PxrmtzG6dlM/s200/IMG_7213.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately, not edible</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One thing that Barichara is well-known for is their edible ANTS! As Mowgli said, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ogQ0uge06o" target="_blank">"You eat ants?"</a> Yes, ants: "hormigas culonas" or "big assed ants" (literally). I knew it was something that I *should* try but it wasn't really something that I *wanted* to try. And I was in Barichara for ant season. When it rains, they come out of hiding the next day, and then they're scooped up and toasted; supposedly they taste like popcorn. It rained heavily the night before we hiked to Barichara and stopped that morning...yikes, I was in "luck." But then I learned that they wouldn't emerge until the day <i>following</i> the big rain, and after that they'd need a day to toast them and get them to their delectable goodness. So no, I <b>didn't</b> eat ants;<b> </b>drat (?), a missed opportunity!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Barichara</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After Barichara, we continued the next day to Guane, another town "lost in time", where my travel buddy Melanie decided to hitch a ride to the next destination. We had met up with a local guide there who was the support vehicle for 3 guys who were hiking from Cabrera that morning (where we had started 2 days prior). He offered to take Melanie to Villanueva, our destination that day, and suggested I wait for the 3 guys and hike from Guane to Villanueva with them. Fortunately, I decided not to wait for the 3 guys, thinking they'd likely catch up to me anyway on the trail. Turns out these three guys were part of an adventure racing team doing everything for time, so they would not have wanted me as their hiking companion! But in any event, these guys decided it was too hot & got a ride most of the way to Villanueva--hey, "no wimps", guys!! (After hiking 3 hours from Guane to Villanueva, I still arrived just before the adventure racers anyway!)</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Planting seeds by hand</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Melanie chose to bus it back to civilization from Villanueva, so I set off shortly after dawn on Wednesday to avoid as much of the heat as possible. This would be my last hiking day and I had 7-8 hours ahead of me, which included a descent into a canyon and then the climb out. Just on the edge of town I ran into a man carrying empty containers and asked him to make sure I was heading out the right way to Jordán, my next destination (a ghost town at the bottom of the Chicamocha Canyon). He said yes and we walked along about 10 minutes together. He heads out this way every morning "for exercise"....and to get water so that he has some at his home. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I passed several people out in the fields, some even planting seeds by hand (beans and tobacco are the big crops in this area I was told). The previous day on the trail I had seen someone carrying a case of beer (essentials!!) on his back up the trail from Guane. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is amazing what the day to day is like for many people here, and even living here I am still constantly amazed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After about an hour I sat down by the side of the road to have a little breakfast. As I was eating, a hiker (obviously a foreigner) walked by & asked if I was going to Jordán. "Yes! We'll see each other in Jordán or on the road!" I finished my breakfast & caught up with the guy a short ways later as he was asking directions of a local. Turns out Bert was a Swiss grad student, and while we started speaking in Spanish, I asked him if he wanted to speak Spanish, English or German. At first when he just heard Spanish or English, he chose Spanish; but then when he heard he had a 3rd choice, he said, "You speak German?" "Yes" "Why??" "Gute Frage!" :) So we spoke German. (While it is hard for me to switch from one language to another, in the past several months I've had more opportunities to speak German while living in Colombia, so it's getting easier. Still there are times when my brain knows it should speak "foreign" but pops out a German word instead of Spanish, or vice versa, and I get some funny looks. But it's getting better....!)</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the descent...</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;">At one point we were advised to get off the "road" (really a jeep track") and take the hiking trail down the canyon. You get directions from the locals which don't always make sense to you (given the language obstacle and unfamiliar territory) until you get to the place they may have described, and then you have to remember what they said about it. For example, one woman we asked was telling us what to do when we got to the "cabrera", which I only realized later meant "goat herd" (not a word I use a lot!), so I didn't even realize what she was talking about until I saw all the goats, and then I had to remember what she said to do once we got to the goats. But always a fun challenge, and from where we found the "cabrera", we had a great view of the canyon--what we were about to go down and the other side that we'd be going up.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The hike down was fine--not a lot of shade but some neat cactii, birds (vultures!) flying around, a snake even. Once at the bottom we passed a "caiman" farm; we chose not to enter but it also brought back up one of those "Oh, I thought someone *did* say something about caimans & I thought maybe I misheard." Nope, alligators. Presumably not native.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;">After our meal in Jordán, we headed up the trail that went up the other side of the canyon. We were going to go up some 3000 feet in I don't know how many miles; my written guide said it would be a 2 hour hike if fresh or a 3 hour hike if you'd started from Villanueva that morning (4.5 hiking hours ago). There were lots of switchbacks so in reality it wasn't that bad, but it was a constant ascent and I had my pack filled with my possessions for the week on my back. And I am not in Ironman shape!! I was dragging a bit and stopped after 30 minutes, telling Bert to go on, but he said he'd hang. After another half hour we stopped again & he offered to switch packs. I said ok, picked up his & he asked, "do you notice a difference?" while at the same time he picked up mine and said "oh, yeah, there is a difference." His was filled with helium; mine not quite. He carried mine the rest of the way which was great for me--we did end up reaching the top in 2 hours which I was pretty happy about, mainly because it meant we were DONE! :)</span></span></span></div>
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At the top was Los Santos, a small town. I had planned to overnight there and take the bus in to Bucaramanga the next morning. During the week I had heard rumors that some bus stations were closed from Thursday afternoon to Friday afternoon of Holy Week (Maundy Thursday to Good Friday) but kind of found that hard to believe since it was also touted as the most popular time to travel--how could they close the bus stations down during that time? In Los Santos I also saw a sign that announced the local buses would be running all day Thursday & Friday so I really thought the intra city buses would be too somehow. Ideally for me would be if I could check out Bucaramanga during the day on Thursday & take an overnight bus that night to Cartagena, arriving "home" on Friday morning.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;">However, all queries confirmed that there would be no bus back to Cartagena Thursday; the bus station would be closed from mid-day to mid-day Friday. Crazy that after a year and a half here, I was surprised by that. Ah well, just another something learned!! So I decided to explore Bucaramanga, "the city of parks", on Thursday. Well, turns out that because of Maundy Thursday, just about everything was closed in Bucaramanga, museums included. I was able to check out the parks as well as the churches, where everyone was getting their floats of Jesus, Mary, etc, ready for the evening processions--it is pretty incredible what they do. (See my post from <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/04/holy-week-in-colombia.html" target="_blank">Holy Week 2012</a>.)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;">The next day, needing to fill time until the first bus left later that evening, I headed to Girón, another picturesque colonial pueblo about 5 miles from Bucaramanga. Turns out a lot of people walk to Girón from Bucaramanga on Good Friday so I joined the crowd--and this crowd also meant that the picturesque little pueblo was jam packed. But it was cute!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;"><i>Click <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/107631487011398850275/albums/5861334081009194497?authkey=CIbqpZ6A-tnVswE" target="_blank">here</a> for complete photos of the week. </i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;"><i>Click <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Cartagena+De+Indias+(Distrito+Tur%C3%ADstico+Y+Cultural),+Colombia&daddr=Barranquilla,+Atlantico,+Colombia+to:Bucaramanga+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:San+Gil+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Cabrera,+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Barichara+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Guane,+Barichara+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Villanueva+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Jordan+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Los+Santos+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia+to:Giron+-+Santander+Department,+Colombia&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=6.640055,-73.240356&spn=1.565915,2.285156&sll=6.80508,-73.11676&sspn=0.78271,1.142578&geocode=Fcv3nwAdD5uA-ykv-lv_xiX2jjFodvugeVkxrA;FfJMpwAdDLCK-yk5EdQiUCz0jjHse_RcjXx3Bw;FV6KbAAdLEWk-yn_io1V2j9ojjEKjmNi0flF8A;Fb8VZAAdaAyk-ylbjPSF0cZpjjGpg2d0T7oxYg;FUC1ZAAdMEui-ymx5swX7cRpjjHgEngOugnBiA;FXU3ZQAdS4yi-ylfJyGdd89pjjEm1xHPtIyh_A;FfT6ZQAdTkui-ylba65SRs5pjjFgGGJV1V6OiA;FfrWZQAdOGWj-yn1pzCTOMlpjjHS4btaZzMBRg;FduCZgAdqjqk-ylH-vD7dLVpjjFw67ncSnnzjQ;FVcrZwAdMYGk-yllVh7AK0hojjHB6I5gvDpyvw;FXHkawAdwHej-ykzQ5YbfCNojjFYERFX9U5x9g&oq=Giron&mra=ls&t=m&z=9">here </a>for a map showing you the different places mentioned in the trip.</i></span></div>
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-43780929684039967932013-03-08T22:16:00.001-05:002017-10-28T08:35:16.645-05:00Chocolate, flowers & kisses!It's International Women's Day! Who knew? I never heard about it much I don't think before I lived in Colombia, but it's widely celebrated here. And it's today! I got chocolate, flowers & kisses (ok, one....on the cheek) from students. Not bad.<br />
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Here are some of Cartagena's celebrated women <i>(many thanks to <a href="http://www.ticartagena.com/" target="_blank">This is Cartagena</a> for some of these photos)</i>:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fydmg9R-jKM/UTqafk3EruI/AAAAAAAAIKE/Dx5WjCvqIpQ/s1600/La+India+Catalina.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fydmg9R-jKM/UTqafk3EruI/AAAAAAAAIKE/Dx5WjCvqIpQ/s320/La+India+Catalina.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
La India Catalina: now a well-known symbol of Cartagena as well as <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/search/label/Cartagena%20International%20Film%20Festival" target="_blank">Cartagena's International Film Festival</a>, she was an indigenous woman kidnapped by the Spanish in the early 1500s from this area. Twenty years later she returned with the Spanish and served as an interpreter in helping to pacify the various tribes here. There is of course a bit of controversy surrounding her. Wasn't she really just a traitor? Did she really look like this statue--tall and slim--while all the other indigenous people were short an stocky?<br />
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La India Catalina stands right outside the old city walls, and just about all local city buses pass by here. Poor Catalina, she's normally looking out over some kind of <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/107631487011398850275/albums/5670486198710494641/5673100132765021922?banner=pwa&authkey=CNDxwpfK0IiEHA" target="_blank">urban transport chaos</a>!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x0fTjSgMTWY/UTqgi4rOhoI/AAAAAAAAIKk/K6jWC6XZ7TA/s1600/2009+03+Colombia+276+Cartagena-Botero+sculpture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x0fTjSgMTWY/UTqgi4rOhoI/AAAAAAAAIKk/K6jWC6XZ7TA/s320/2009+03+Colombia+276+Cartagena-Botero+sculpture.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Gertrude, a sculpture by famed Colombian artist Fernando Botero, is more commonly known as "La Gordita", or "the fat woman." However, subjects painted and sculpted by Botero are not fat, but "voluminous." Gertrude is displayed in the Plaza Santo Domingo in the heart of the old city, a great place to have an evening drink at one of the many outdoor restaurants. In the maze that is the Old City, she's also handy to use as a place to meet (everyone can find her) or as a way to give directions: "If you're in the Plaza Santo Domingo, follow La Gordita's feet and go a block, then turn right."<br />
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"Noli Me Tangere" says this woman facing the location of Cartagena's old port. <a href="http://www.ticartagena.com/" target="_blank">This is Cartagena</a> roughly translates it to, "Back off, pirates! I've got this covered." :) Not bad, not bad. In colonial times, Cartagena stored a lot of the Spanish empire's riches and was often the site of enemy attack.</div>
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La Palenquera statue stands along the waterfront outside the old city, with the Bocagrande Peninsula in the background. As mentioned in <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/10/back-to-palenque-for-drum-festival.html" target="_blank">previous</a> <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/09/travels-with-sara-ii-san-basilio-de.html" target="_blank">posts</a>, the women of Palenque, a pueblo outside of Cartagena originally founded by escaped slaves, have become a symbol of Cartagena. They wear brightly colored dresses and sell fruit and sweets carried in large bowls on their heads throughout the walled city.<br />
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Above is Maria, the aunt of one of my students, with my mother and me in January. Those bowls are *heavy* and the women normally carry them on their heads...I don't know how they do it!</div>
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Feliz Día--Happy Women's Day!</div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-21320202993904024522013-01-12T22:18:00.002-05:002013-01-12T22:18:41.943-05:00Food in a bag a la peruana!Yes, I know, I haven't officially blogged in a couple of months and LOTS of things to catch you all up on...but in the meantime, I found another entry to my "<a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2011/12/food-in-bag.html" target="_blank">Food in a bag</a>" post (which generated 4, count 'em four, comments--my highest number to date! :).<br />
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I'm in Peru for a couple of weeks traveling and saw the--in my opinion--the oddest choice of food item to put in a bag: eggs! While I can think of a "con" for this kind of packaging I'm not sure what a "pro" would be. Anyone?<br />
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More in the near future on Colombian destinations (Ciudad Perdida, Popayan, Putumayo...) and Peru (Lake Titicaca, Ollantaytambo, Machu Picchu, Nazca, the Amazon...). I'm heading back to teach in Cartagena for 2013 also; my 6 week visit has turned into over a year!<br />
<br />Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-58558086363647267852012-10-19T21:49:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:35:37.697-05:00Bocachica Revisited<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1UZgVPvsmg/UH1_97o1IdI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/PWnZDvNMjh8/s1600/IMG_5375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1UZgVPvsmg/UH1_97o1IdI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/PWnZDvNMjh8/s200/IMG_5375.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our group led by our fearless guide on the left!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Last weekend was a holiday weekend (Dia de la Raza, aka Columbus Day in the U.S., was celebrated on the Monday) and the occasion to return to nearby places I'd already been to but wanted to get to know better. <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/10/back-to-palenque-for-drum-festival.html" target="_blank">San Basilio de Palenque</a> was one place; <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/06/bocachicaand-ghosts.html" target="_blank">Bocachica and the Island of Tierrabomba was another</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I really wanted to go for a long hike on the island but at the tourist office was told that wasn't possible. But then I learned that the parents of one of my students was from Bocachica; I told her that I wanted to go on a l o n g hike, like from one end of the island to another, and asked her if it could be done. She said of course and arranged for someone to lead us.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bocachica<i> Foto by Norell</i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So, 8 of us (3 Colombians, a Colombian-American, 2 Yanks, a Mexican-American, & a German; love the international groups!) met up on Monday morning at 8:30. Of course the trip to Bocachica was only 20 minutes by boat, but for a variety of reasons, we didn't get there til 10:30. This is Colombia!</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fort San Angel Rafael</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We met our guide, German, at his home. He is a native of Bocachica & is involved with an organization that's working to preserve the old Spanish forts & ruins on the island. He was really informative & a very nice guy. There are 1600 people who live on the island in 4 small communities, all very poor. What is happening though of course is that the wealthy (individuals and companies) are buying up some parts of the island & during the course of our day we all of a sudden came across an area where there were luxury homes & hotel like places right on the water. What a contrast. In addition, the Colombian government owns some of the land there & a naval base, currently located on some prime real estate in Cartagena's Bocagrande area, will be moved to the island in the near future.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yrJYnClfq4c/UIGHwEVPc0I/AAAAAAAAFAQ/XC6WZ5aB-zw/s1600/IMG_5372A.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yrJYnClfq4c/UIGHwEVPc0I/AAAAAAAAFAQ/XC6WZ5aB-zw/s200/IMG_5372A.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>BATS!!</b><i> Foto by Norell</i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">German started out by taking us through the town of Bocachica, up a hill to a fort called San Angel Rafael. The fort had a really nice view all around, had been restored about 12 years ago, & had an escape tunnel that led down to the beach! We didn't escape. We entered just the opening of the tunnel and encountered BATS which was kind of creepy, although three of the local girls who followed us in to the fort had no qualms about going through all of the tunnels that we had been a bit nervous about. After enjoying the history & the view, we wandered down to the other fort that I'd already seen during my last trip. I was starting to worry that I wasn't going to see new parts of the island or get my long hike in, despite the fact that German had said a few times "get ready to WALK!" I didn't need to fear...</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B4OGQodo1Xs/UH2AdaZrd-I/AAAAAAAAE8g/i5ljZZO6KQQ/s1600/IMG_5403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B4OGQodo1Xs/UH2AdaZrd-I/AAAAAAAAE8g/i5ljZZO6KQQ/s200/IMG_5403.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blowhole!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once we left that other fort, we started to really hike. We went all along a black coral bedded coast and passed some other old Spanish defense battery ruins, a blowhole where water at times shoots up to 10 meters high, as well as luxury homes. It did seem a little disconcerting how the luxury homes contrasted with the houses in the villages; it was apparent, too, that the fences built around these homes that reached nearly to the water had blocked off paths that previously had been used by the locals. But the coast was gorgeous....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After lunch & a quick dip for some, we started heading inland and up. This is the rainy season on the Caribbean coast, which means that (normally) brief but heavy rainstorms are fairly frequent. We connected with the one road (dirt) that went across the island, which of course was very muddy due to the rains. A few people on motorcycles were coming at us from the other direction and were having a hard time getting through; the smart guy on the burro had no trouble at all though!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xtSYXdc9t9I/UH2Akwhd39I/AAAAAAAAE9I/PzztciGaTac/s1600/IMG_5409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xtSYXdc9t9I/UH2Akwhd39I/AAAAAAAAE9I/PzztciGaTac/s200/IMG_5409.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We're going to get muddy!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our goal was another small village on the "Cartagena" side of the island, from which we'd see a view of the city and be able to get a boat back home. We made it there at about 5 pm, 7 hours after we started. One of my fellow hikers from Cartagena said that it was the best hike he'd ever done. We were muddy and sore, but it was really good, beautiful, and interesting. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From where we had arrived, we had a great view of the Cartagena skyline. In the foreground, just below where we were standing on Tierrabomba Island, you could see the very humble homes that people live in, then came the bay, then the luxury high rises of Cartagena. The discrepancy is always shocking. Wikipedia cites a World Bank study saying that Colombia is "among the most unequal Latin American countries in terms of wealth distribution" and <a href="http://www.eluniversal.com.co/columna/cartagena-pobreza-y-desempleo" target="_blank">a recent article in the local paper</a> said that the GINI index (which measures wealth inequality) had risen by 10% in Cartagena in the past 16 years. That inequality was glaringly obvious to me this weekend.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oI7CWz9fJkw/UH2AsoEq3UI/AAAAAAAAE-E/b7KypxbnCiE/s1600/IMG_5417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oI7CWz9fJkw/UH2AsoEq3UI/AAAAAAAAE-E/b7KypxbnCiE/s200/IMG_5417.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Compare: homes in the foreground with those in the background</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I got my hike in, but got a lot more too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>For more photos of Bocachica and Tierrabomba Island, click <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20121015CaminataTierrabomba?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMmNps7exqS0eQ&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></span></div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-3991201362364636742012-10-17T19:13:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:35:54.234-05:00Back to Palenque for the Drum Festival!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0wEZJlWi1vI/UIGKH0AprmI/AAAAAAAAFBI/a6H4n83dQP0/s1600/2012+10+14+Palenque+00A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0wEZJlWi1vI/UIGKH0AprmI/AAAAAAAAFBI/a6H4n83dQP0/s200/2012+10+14+Palenque+00A.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palenque street (photo:ElUniversal)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was just back in San Basilio de Palenque! <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/09/travels-with-sara-ii-san-basilio-de.html" target="_blank">In my other post about this pueblo</a> I mentioned there's a drum festival every October; it was last weekend and I was invited on a day trip with a group from my old Spanish language school. We took an air conditioned van for the hour trip between Cartagena & Palenque--not as adventurous as last time but more comfortable, plus I got to meet a number of new people (mostly travelers), some here for just a few weeks & some for much longer. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palenquero sweets</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Almost as soon as I stepped out of the group van after we arrived, I ran into a student of mine who'd been in one of my classes for the September cycle & who was from Palenque. It was great to have him tell us about his town and the women of Palenque ("Palenqueras"), who have become symbols of Cartagena. Their becoming Cartagena symbols came about relatively recently & was the result of a lot of struggles by these women. They've traditionally sold fruit & sweets that they carry around in the bowls on their heads, but they were having a hard time being able to do it in the old city of Cartagena. It was only in about 1990 that they were finally given permission to do so, but then there were also certain regulations imposed on hygiene, etc., which all agreed that was not a bad thing, but also they were asked to wear the colorful dresses, which some consider costumes, as they are not a Palenque tradition.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BLA_Z_Bg5OY/UH141T1-XKI/AAAAAAAAE20/2Ys2q3WtbTM/s1600/2012+10+14+Palenque+lunch+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BLA_Z_Bg5OY/UH141T1-XKI/AAAAAAAAE20/2Ys2q3WtbTM/s200/2012+10+14+Palenque+lunch+01.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our lunch cooking outside!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the homes in Palenque are very humble (many don't have indoor plumbing, have outdoor kitchens and dirt floors), many Palenquero parents work hard so that their children don't have to "work from the bowl", as the women traditionally do, or "work with a machete" in the fields as the men usually do. My student is one of those whose parents have stressed the importance of education; he and his siblings are all pursuing university degrees or have professional careers.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Her hairstyle took about 5 hours to do.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I revisited the parts of the village I'd visited the last time and wandered further on the small streets. We listened to a talk on the various hairstyles of the Palenque women and what they meant--I didn't realize that different hairstyles were worn for different occasions or had different meanings. And I realized they were likely time consuming but didn't think it might take several hours to get your hair done! In addition, there were various dance and music groups performing at various times of the day so we were well entertained & cultured.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9eTHTQU1jOM/UIGKKSjDLNI/AAAAAAAAFBg/EPWvb24AUqQ/s1600/2012+10+14+Palenque+100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9eTHTQU1jOM/UIGKKSjDLNI/AAAAAAAAFBg/EPWvb24AUqQ/s200/2012+10+14+Palenque+100.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gracias, Ronal!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By not staying overnight, I missed the Sunday morning 4 am wake up call. A colleague said that the whole town was awoken to the beating of drums and everyone gathered to sing. She said it was quite impressive, although I think I was happy to be in my bed in Cartagena!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>More photos from the Drum Festival Day in Palenque found <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20121014PalenqueFestivalDeLosTambores?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMPP9YnU1cm33gE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here.</a></i></span><br />
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-56020259847497953602012-09-23T21:55:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:36:08.555-05:00Cannons, Carriages, Chivas, Carts & "Cometas"<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cannons are a great place to hang out!</td></tr>
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When I look out of my apartment, I have a direct view to the top of the old city wall. Of course, being the protector of Cartagena, the wall was armed with cannons, some of which are still there. The last part of the wall to be built was called "Las Bóvedas," 23 large vaults originally used to house military while protecting the city, but which are currently nice craft shops. My apartment is not far from Las Bóvedas, a popular tourist destination, and so I often get to hear the clip clop of the horse carriage tours that people take in the walled city; hearing that you could almost imagine what it might have been like when horses were the only mode of transportation. But then along comes the next popular way to tour Cartagena: the Chiva party bus with their music & cheering party people. Sure, I did a "<a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2011/11/november-parties.html" target="_blank">Rumba en Chiva</a>" during the November Parties last year but hmmm....never thought about the people who lived along the route :). Well they end by 10 or 11 so it's not really so bad, and they definitely DO sound like they're having fun!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clip clopping towards Las Bóvedas</td></tr>
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Beyond the clip clopping and the "rumbas", there's a lot more street life to listen to--the fruit & vegetable vendors pushing their carts and calling out their goods and prices (papaya! papaya! a mil a mil a mil a mil!); the newspaper guy telling you what paper he's hawking; the guy pedaling his pedi-cart selling rolls who bangs on the metal top to let you know he's there; there are actually different types of vendors who have different patterns of "banging", but I've yet to successfully differentiate one pattern from another--I need to pay better attention! I do, however, have my basket ready with a rope tied to it. When I hear someone coming by selling what I want, I can now go to the balcony, call down, negotiate the price, pass down my money and bring up my purchase. Haven't done it yet, but I'm prepared!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Let's go fly a kite!</td></tr>
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And it's kite season!! There are tons of "cometas"to be seen out my window recently. There have always been a few but it seems to be more lately. I had noticed them across the wall but it never occurred to me to see where the kite party was really happening til I noticed another friend's blog post about it. So I went out a different way & lo and behold, there was a huge kite party going on! I need to alter my route more so I don't miss out on stuff like this!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">More kite flying photos <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120909CometsOfCartagena?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCK3Dy8LK6L7x_QE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I'm in a horse carriage <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120727SoniaSaraBarbInCartagena?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCN_SzNnrrb3PtQE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>!</span><br />
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-46632498207361734192012-09-03T20:03:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:36:29.032-05:00At the US Embassy<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While visiting friends in Bogota in August, another friend who was coming from Medellin for a long weekend said she was going to the U.S. Embassy while in Bogota to renew her visa. That triggered me to think about my situation & the close proximity to the US Embassy and its services. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My US passport was due to expire in June 2013, which, yes, was nearly a year away, but I was also living in Cartagena. I was planning to leave Colombia for the December holidays and return via Peru; I would need to have a passport that was valid for at least 6 months upon entering Peru and I would not have that. Yes, I'd be in the U.S., near the nation's capital, for Christmas, but you need 8 weeks to get a passport processed; 2 weeks if you pay the expedited fee. I wasn't sure I was going to have that much time!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So...I went to the US Embassy in Bogota with Martha. For the past I don't know how many years, Colombians have needed tourist visas to travel to almost every country in the world (from what I understand it's because of the history of drug lords, etc; Colombians need special vetting as I'm sure other countries do too for other reasons). A lot of countries require visas, but few require them of U.S. citizens who are coming as tourists. We are lucky. For Colombians going to the U.S., they have to apply in person for their visa at the Embassy in Bogota (no matter where they live) and pay about $200 <i>just for the application</i>. If they are denied, they don't get that money back (& of course have already spent money to travel to Bogota if they don't live there). This is similar for people from other countries who have to apply for a U.S. tourist visa. For Colombians, the visas used to be valid for 5 years, but with the passage of the US-Colombian Free Trade Agreement in May, the tourist visas are now valid for 10 years (multiple entries allowed). A big boon for a lot of Colombians! </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Got myself a new one, with extra pages even!</span></td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At the embassy, Martha and I each went our separate ways, to different entrances of the complex. I had a 10:30 appt & was out by 11:15. When I finished, I asked for the rest room, and was led through a secured area and then out to the waiting area where the Colombians are waiting to talk to someone about their tourist visa. Wow, the U.S. citizens don't even have direct access to bathrooms at the U.S. Embassy while Colombians do? I thought we were so inconvenienced! And look, the Colombians get a nice cafe, a little restaurant, ice cream shop (Crepes & Waffles!). Nice! Little did I know....</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;">Martha had an 11:00 appointment, for which she was told to get there by 10:30. When I finished, I went to find her and she hadn't even entered the security gate. </span>I was in & out (& used the bathroom!! :) before she even got in. The Colombians were all lined up outside waiting ("Wait by the black fence")--had it been raining, which happens a lot in Bogota, they would have been soaked. Martha was finally done at 1 pm, 2.5 hours later. They all deserve that cafe and ice cream shop, and more!!</span></div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-72328776939031291182012-08-29T22:45:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:36:58.873-05:00San Agustin: Number 4<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paco, Barb, Martha, Carlos!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When I first decided to start my "new life" in Cartagena, in learning more about the place so I could tell everyone what I was doing, I learned it was listed as a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_World_Heritage_Sites_in_the_Americas" target="_blank">UNESCO World Heritage Cultural site</a>. As I spent more time in Colombia and traveled, I learned there were other such sites; I visited the second, the <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/01/feliz-ano-nuevo.html" target="_blank">Coffee Zone</a> (or "Eje Cafetero"), last New Year's. At Easter time, I visited another: <a href="http://wiredbarb.blogspot.com/2012/04/holy-week-in-colombia.html" target="_blank">Mompós</a>. I was starting to think that maybe everywhere in Colombia was a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural site and so maybe it didn't mean so much, amazing as these places are. But I've since learned that there are only seven UNESCO World Heritage Cultural sites in Colombia, and, as someone wanting to learn a lot about the country and see the amazing places they have, I just happen to be hitting them.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The park is filled with sculptures & tombs</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kxFKSyX8UFA/UEK6q20ApLI/AAAAAAAAEl8/OhRgKyz-9pE/s1600/P8250132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I hit my fourth in August, when I traveled with friends to <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?q=San+Agust%C3%ADn+-+Huila,+Colombia&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=1.900286,-76.278076&spn=6.299512,9.09668&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=39.86519,72.773438&oq=san+agustin,+hu&hnear=San+Agust%C3%ADn,+Colombia&t=m&z=7" target="_blank">San Agustin</a>, in the Huila Department of Colombia. Martha, Carlos, Paco & I took an overnight bus from Bogota to San Agustin, a 525 km/325 mile trip that took 11 hours. The seats on the bus aren't bad, better than economy airplane seats these days. They even show movies (often US ones dubbed in Spanish & then subtitled in English!). Colombian buses have a reputation for "setting the air conditioning to stun" and so hand out blankets for the trip (why not just turn down the AC??? Who knows??!).</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small section of a carved river fountain</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qafmaji7eDk/UEK6rz4VevI/AAAAAAAAEmE/h0dRocpQBXo/s1600/IMG_5165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the morning we got to San Agustin, a town of about 40,000 people and is known for it's Stonehenge/ Easter Island like ancient stone carvings & burial grounds. The main focus in the archeological parks there is on people who lived from 3,300 BC to about 800 AD. Not much is known about their lives, but these people left some amazing sculptures & mysteries, such as how did they move these multi-ton slabs around?? I was really impressed by how well-presented the sculptures were in the parks and how well-kept things were in general in this area, a little different from other parks and parts of Colombia that I've seen. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All those camp years learning to ride for naught :)</td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rGALWTSBfUk/UEK6pxuqlkI/AAAAAAAAEl0/q61hfceZNJw/s1600/IMG_5163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="clear: right; float: right; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The area around San Agustin was beautiful. On our second day there, we visited some archeological sites on horseback. I hadn't been riding since I was about 15 probably. I didn't really need to worry about remembering how to do anything as the horse knows what to do, since he does this same route with tourists several times a week. But I would have liked to have stopped him from galloping off whenever he felt like it (although honestly our whole "pack" would all gallop off at the same time so I'm sure there would have been no stopping my horse!). It rained a bit that morning but it was still gorgeous countryside.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Few sculptures still had colored paint</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">That afternoon, we drove to a couple of more spots, including the narrowest part of the Magdalena River. The Magdalena is Colombia's principal river, running pretty much the length of the country on the western side. It starts near San Agustin and ends in Barranquilla, just an hour east of Cartagena. There is talk of putting a damn in the Magdalena near where this narrowest part is, which of course some are in favor but many are not....and it is such a gorgeous site it would seem a shame to flood it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So in less than a year, without really trying, I've been to nearly all of the Colombian UNESCO World Heritage Cultural sites. (In comparison, the US has only 9 and I have only been to only 4 of those, not quite half!) It is a pretty amazing country with a lot to offer, and there are other categories of UNESCO sites to hit here too! I plan to be visit the last Cultural site, Tierradentro, in late November. But before that, I'll be visiting a "wannabe"--one of the sites that's on the "tentative list" for becoming one of these cultural sites--when I do the 4 night/5 day <a href="http://www.sfgate.com/travel/article/Colombia-s-Lost-City-may-be-next-Machu-Picchu-2344790.php#page-1" target="_blank">Ciudad Perdida ("Lost City") trek</a> in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Tayrona National Park.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock sculpted on 3 sides overlooking the Magdalena</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Magdalena</td></tr>
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<i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">More photos of San Agustin can be found <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120824SanAgustinArcheologogicalParks?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNmzqfGCzuDDAg&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a> (day 1: parks) and <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120825SanAgustinHorsebackRideEstrechoDeLaMagdalena?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCL2RptSCj5-H3wE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a> (day 2: horseback riding & Magdalena narrows).</i></div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-31092395649954786562012-08-01T10:23:00.000-05:002019-02-23T16:26:59.037-05:00Travels with Sara 2 -- San Basilio de Palenque<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monument to Benkos Biohó, San Basilio de Palenque founder</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sara arriving in Palenque via mototaxi</td></tr>
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I had wanted to visit Palenque, not far from Cartagena, ever since I read a little blurb about it shortly after I arrived here last October. Hard-working "Palenqueras", or women from Palenque, walk around Cartagena in their colorful dresses, selling fruit and sweets which they carry in bowls on their heads, and have become symbols of this city. What was the story of the town they're from?<br />
"Palenques" ("walled cities"), were small towns founded by escaped slaves in the 1600s. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Basilio_de_Palenque" target="_blank">San Basilio de Palenque</a>, about 50 km from Cartagena, was the first such town and the only one still in existence in Colombia. Most of the some 3,500 residents are direct descendants of these escaped slaves and they have a unique culture reflective of their African roots, including having their own language. The town has been <a href="http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/00102" target="_blank">recognized by UNESCO as an important cultural space</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KaBDzwuGAaI/UDQ4NqxGPuI/AAAAAAAAELQ/klBEoqDXrII/s1600/PICT0101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KaBDzwuGAaI/UDQ4NqxGPuI/AAAAAAAAELQ/klBEoqDXrII/s200/PICT0101.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with Maria & a friend</td></tr>
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Sara was all for visiting Palenque and the adventure of getting there. We took a ~45 minute local bus from downtown to the bus terminal, then another ~45 minute bus trip to where the road to Palenque met the major "highway." From there you take a "mototaxi" the ~3 miles to Palenque itself. A mototaxi is a motorcycle that takes a paying passenger; no, it's not a legal business but they are widespread here on the coast. Having seen the mototaxis speeding dangerously through the jam packed streets of Cartagena, I never wanted to take one, but here it was our only option. I asked my helmetless driver for a helmet but there was none to be had. I will say that our drivers drove quite carefully and slowly over the partially paved/partially unpaved road in to Palenque and it wasn't so bad. Still, I don't anticipate taking one anytime soon in Cartagena.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VBBiXedAILc/UDQ4hiarnwI/AAAAAAAAELw/BpTDgSjn-Ro/s1600/IMG_4995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VBBiXedAILc/UDQ4hiarnwI/AAAAAAAAELw/BpTDgSjn-Ro/s200/IMG_4995.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Maestro in front of his portrait</td></tr>
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There are a couple of Palenqueras who work outside of my school & I had asked one, Maria, for advice on how best to visit her town, knowing this would mean we'd end up with a guide, which was fine. She set us up with her daughter (who I didn't realize was only 13, but that's ok...) and had us start out at the "Maestro's" house, an older gentleman who leads <a href="https://playingforchange.com/musicians/el-sextetotabala-lasalegres-ambulancias/" target="_blank">a Palenquero musical group</a> that has traveled around the world, which we discovered when we met him. It was interesting, and quite a contrast, to hear him talk about his international travels while we were sitting in the back yard of his very humble home in this town which has only had electricity since the 1970s and where many people don't have running water.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hjLmgvXiRi8/UDQ57dbAaDI/AAAAAAAAENo/8D-lfI6MFLo/s1600/IMG_5003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hjLmgvXiRi8/UDQ57dbAaDI/AAAAAAAAENo/8D-lfI6MFLo/s200/IMG_5003.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The swimming slash laundry hole</td></tr>
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Our guide Liliana showed us the cultural center; the river where many wash their clothes as well as swim; the main square with a statue of the town's founder <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benkos_Bioho" target="_blank">Benkos Biohó</a>, an escaped slave; the school; boxing area; and then took us to a restaurant where we had lunch. It was all quite interesting, even if there was not really much to see, but such an obviously different type of life. The people there live on agriculture (& Liliana was explaining to us what she learned in school about planting, harvesting, etc), tourism (there is a music festival every October when the town is packed), and the women who sell their fruit & sweets, etc. Such a different life.<br />
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More photos of Palenque <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120728SanBasilioDePalenque?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJW0mZ7P9df2lAE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-22001551716607836152012-07-25T19:48:00.000-05:002017-10-31T20:57:40.373-05:00Travels with Sara Part 1: Medellin<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_CsR3uCrZ_M/UDRIXlc7PKI/AAAAAAAAET0/XdxvhrzWcb0/s320/IMG_4920.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At a library donated to a poorer Medellin neighborhood by the Spanish royals</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_CsR3uCrZ_M/UDRIXlc7PKI/AAAAAAAAET0/XdxvhrzWcb0/s1600/IMG_4920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">July means a visit from a college friend and the opportunity to travel to Medellin and San Basilio de Palenque, two very different destinations.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At a family meal!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Everyone raves about Medellin, because in a country that is somewhat organizationally challenged, Medellin has it all figured out. Their public transportation system especially is something to brag about and consists not only of a coordinated bus and light rail system, but it has cable cars as a part of the transport as well. The system was purposefully made to connect the poorer neighborhoods with downtown as a way to facilitate people from those areas getting to work. If people from troubled neighborhoods have jobs, life will improve all around in the city. It is simple but ingenious. Medellin's had a troubled past, having been in the middle of Pablo Escobar's "realm", but it's done wonders to pull itself out of that past. While there are still issues, it is a city to be rivaled in Colombia.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rNxMhmiYTds/UDRAtASJ5cI/AAAAAAAAEQg/a_94YeHWXp0/s200/IMG_4933.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="150" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"Typical" for the region: Bandeja Paisa</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sara and I met up in Medellin and stayed with friends who are Medellin natives. That is the best way to get to know a place--stay with the locals! Plus we got a bit of Colombian family culture with a great family meal that included a sister, cousin, & brother-in-law. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Medellin's known as the "city of eternal spring" and is a little cooler than Cartagena, which was a welcome change. Sara and I even got to join in on Medellin's "Ciclovia", where they close many of the downtown streets to car traffic and you can ride, roller blade, walk or run to your heart's content. It was a great way to see the city and get some exercise!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hqssPyKrxms/UDRAxoFXeqI/AAAAAAAAEQo/VooSFvF9JHM/s200/IMG_4935.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At the Bridge of the West!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We took a day trip to one of the colonial pueblos about 1.5 hours outside the city, Santa Fe de Antioquia. It was a cute little town, but the highlight for us was a trip to the nearby Puente del Occidente, or Bridge of the West. We got there via an enclosed mototaxi (kind of a "tuk tuk") which made it even more fun and our driver gave us the low down on what to expect--the Brooklyn Bridge! Well, he explained that it was built in the late 19th century and designed by Colombian Jose Manuel Villa, who also helped with the design of the Brooklyn Bridge. Not quite NYC, but still very impressive!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next up, San Basilio de Palenque....</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">More photos & comments on our trip to Medellin are <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120720Medellin?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCN2Dhdul8c6AnwE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">More photos of & comments on our trip Santa Fe de Antioquia and el Puente de Occidente are <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/SantaFeDeAntioquia?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIj_3JKel_ODeA&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></i></span><br />
<br />Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-858168613509346022012-06-27T17:28:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:37:41.435-05:00Tayrona!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y35pNllc08w/T-PRvqooDDI/AAAAAAAAEIY/G9lmkhRrH8s/s1600/IMGP1592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y35pNllc08w/T-PRvqooDDI/AAAAAAAAEIY/G9lmkhRrH8s/s200/IMGP1592.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linda Michel & I arriving at the waterfall</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">For the second long weekend in June, a
group was going to Tayrona National Park, northeast along the coast just
past Santa Marta. I had been here during my 2009 trip for a day and it
was beautiful, but a bit more crowded and noisy than how I normally
picture a national park. This time I chose a different route starting
from a less popular park entrance. Derval and started off with a
strenuous 3 hour hike to a lesser known beach, Playa Brava, to
spend the night there. It was a beautiful and solitary hike, which was
fine except that the trail wasn't always very well marked. If we weren't
sure where we were going, we plunked ourselves down for a bit and sooner or later someone
(usually carrying a machete--seems almost everyone has one here!) would come along to
help us figure out the way.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y2BOOAURL04/T99Wjfd0RTI/AAAAAAAAEEE/EyJwg1VQskI/s1600/IMG_4886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y2BOOAURL04/T99Wjfd0RTI/AAAAAAAAEEE/EyJwg1VQskI/s200/IMG_4886.JPG" width="150" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Great roots!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">Playa Brava was
definitely less popular and also didn't look quite as luxurious as it
seemed in the photos on their website. We were the only guests there but
were greeted by a man, woman and her cute, chatty 8 year old girl. We
ended up going on a hike with little Linda Michel to a waterfall and
spent a nice afternoon. Four more people showed up in the evening and we
all enjoyed the great peace and quiet in that beautiful setting.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FVsu2ysDuBA/T99Yz4R_LlI/AAAAAAAAEFg/LdH_CkleMzA/s1600/IMG_4895.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FVsu2ysDuBA/T99Yz4R_LlI/AAAAAAAAEFg/LdH_CkleMzA/s200/IMG_4895.JPG" width="200" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Entering Pueblito</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">The next day, Derval
and I set out to hike another strenuous route to meet up with the rest
of the group at the "popular" beach. We had seen the turn off to this
trail on our way down the previous day and were planning to reverse our
steps to that point. Our host told us there was a short cut, basically
the hypotenuse to meet up with that trail, that would save us quite a
bit. We figured it would be great to go a totally new route. He led us
to the trail head (really a dry river bed) & told us to go straight
until we see the "big tree" and then go left. Really? Turn left at the
big tree? We were facing a jungle of big trees! We hoped it would be
obvious to us when we saw it but....it wasn't. After a little while we
realized we missed our turn and decided to head back all the way to
Playa Blanca and take the trail we knew. Only about 10 minutes after we
turned around, we saw the Big Tree. We had to search a bit for the "left
turn" but ultimately found it & kept on hiking (mostly straight up
at that point!). Our first goal was "Pueblito", </span>
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">where between 460 and 1600
AD approximately 2000 people lived in a village of some 250
structures. Pretty cool. Of course, also in this isolated spot you were able to buy a chilled, ok, at least not *hot*, Coke, Gatorade, etc. I do admire the industriousness of people who will lug a cooler chest and ice to a remote location to sell cold drinks, even if it seems a bit out of place!</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">A millipede the size of your hand.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Once
there, we saw some others who'd come up from Cabo San Juan (where we were meeting the others), telling us it was a
really difficult hike. We headed down & it did involve some boulder hopping
& climbing but it wasn't really that much harder than what we'd already
done. At least on this trail we saw more people; on our previous trail that
morning we saw no one. On the trail the day before we saw I think 3-4 people.
It's comforting to see people to at least know you're going the right way!! Although we'd been warned of snakes and "tigers", the only animals we really saw were insects--huge millipedes and <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GU5At2gREn4EAbG2T0peyLqWsmhlmT5Lsf4qAqR1CKA?feat=directlink" target="_blank">leaf cutter ants</a> being the most interesting!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The beautiful Tayrona coast</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">We met up with the others and had lunch at the outdoor restaurant there; then I headed out to the main park entrance while they spent another night in the park. I was ready to leave the "crowded" part of the park and head back "home" to Cartagena!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><i>More photos of Tayrona are <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120616ParqueTayrona?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOTRroaR_c7gQA&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.</i></span></span></div>
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Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-70284626083327534712012-06-14T20:56:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:37:52.675-05:00Tolú tolu?<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lindley & Derval in their bicitaxi</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Colombia has the most holidays anywhere; I read that someplace although I don't know if it's really true. It does make it a great place to work if there are a lot of 3-day weekends to enjoy. We have two in June and during the first, a couple of us went to Tolú, a coastal destination about 3 hours by bus south of Cartagena.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">It's always quite an adventure getting information
on buses, schedules & prices here. Depending on who you ask (even people
representing the same company) you can get several different answers. When
buying your bus tickets at the terminal, you can even try to negotiate down the
cost of the ticket. It makes every trip even more of an adventure!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Tolú is known for its bicitaxis (aka rickshaw,
velocab, pedicab) and sure enough, as soon as we got off the bus there were
several bicitaxis with their drivers (or perhaps I should say pedalers?)
waiting to take us to our hostel. The bicitaxis we were in were quiet and subdued
and could only take one or two passengers, compared to the ones we saw later
that evening which could hold maybe 8-10 people, had colored lights going, music
blasting, and some even had videos. Each bicitaxi was trying to outdo the
other!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Lindley & I in the mangroves</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">But before we got to Saturday night, that afternoon we took a local bus to an area
known for its scenic canoe rides through the mangroves. When
we got off the bus, we were immediately met by a couple of men who wanted to
sell us a canoe ride. We had been told it would probably be about 15,000 pesos/person
and the guy offered it to us for 30,000 each. We said no way. He then brought
us over to a sign advertising their prices, which had various tours at
different prices & he said he'd lower the price and give all the tours
combined to us for 80,000 for the 3 of us. We said we were willing to pay 15,000
each at which point he said no way, way too low, look at these official prices
which are much higher! We then said 60,000 for all 3 & he immediately
grinned and said yes. That grin let us know we caved way too easily & we
said so--he just laughed and took us down to where the canoes were and pointed
to our guide. Later I realized we shouldn't even have been talking to that guy;
we should have been dealing directly with the canoe guide & cutting out the
middle man. No matter how much experience you think you have & that next
time you'll negotiate better, you're never quite totally on the ball….</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the past, this mangrove
had been populated by small alligators. However, according to our guide, back
40-50 years ago one could make a lot of money from catching the gators &
selling them for their skins, and so they were hunted out. We didn't see much
wildlife on our tour but enjoyed a little trip on the water.</span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Caught in the act!</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The next day we booked a trip to the islands, part of the
San Bernardo archipelago which in turn is part of the National Park of the Rosario Islands near Cartagena (see 27 May post!). This trip was much nicer than the Playa Blanca/Rosary Island trip in my opinion--less crowded, less touristy, more peaceful. Not exactly an abandoned beach but one could pretend.</span><style>
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<i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">More Tolu photos can be found <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120609Tolu?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCM62n_mY84fZUA&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>. </span></i></div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-85236621274883073002012-06-03T14:51:00.004-05:002017-10-28T08:38:03.763-05:00Bocachica...and ghosts??<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cIc4R1Edcs8/T8FoEP9CElI/AAAAAAAAD9M/gnqnmp2CcFM/s1600/IMG_4827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cIc4R1Edcs8/T8FoEP9CElI/AAAAAAAAD9M/gnqnmp2CcFM/s320/IMG_4827.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52R3_I27LsM/T8uz2jJPppI/AAAAAAAAD9A/dePDUNGelZk/s1600/IMG_4823A.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52R3_I27LsM/T8uz2jJPppI/AAAAAAAAD9A/dePDUNGelZk/s320/IMG_4823A.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Last weekend I visited Bocachica with some friends. This is a small village on an island in the Cartagena Bay, just a 15 minute boat ride away. There's a small but nice and uncrowded beach here right next to one of the forts that helped protect Cartagena from the enemy: the French, English, Spanish, and/or pirates, depending on what point of history we're talking about. The San Fernando Fort was built on Terrabomba Island just at the opening of "Boca Chica", or small mouth, through which ships could enter Cartagena Bay from the Caribbean Sea. On a small island on the other side of this passageway, the Battery of San Jose was built. A large, heavy chain was strung between these two structures which was used to impede passage of those they didn't want entering. (There is also "Boca Grande", or big mouth, but that entrance had been blocked at one point accidentally via sunken ships and at another point on purpose in order to more easily protect Cartagena; it is still blocked to large ships.)<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI6Ti2GE2ik/T8FoFps6C5I/AAAAAAAAD9c/34UTj8HUvQw/s1600/IMG_4830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI6Ti2GE2ik/T8FoFps6C5I/AAAAAAAAD9c/34UTj8HUvQw/s320/IMG_4830.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
This weekend I finally visited the Naval Museum of Cartagena. There is a TON of information there on the history of the Spanish coming and taking over the land; Cartagena as a principal stop on the trade route between the Americas and Spain; Cartagena as a principal slave port for the Americas; and the intricacies of what was going on with the various European crowns, i.e., who was marrying or not marrying whom which caused or stopped the various wars (which also affected what was happening in the New World of course). In addition, they talked about how the fortifications were made, and one of the ingredients in the walls is horse doo doo, how can that be?? And just to add a little spice to the museum visit, it's haunted! I had read about this in the local paper a few months ago and there were displays telling about the different paranormal visitors: there's a ghost who often pushes people down the stairs, a couple who roam the upstairs balcony, a headless pirate who's been seen at the helm of one of the ships, and more. I didn't sense any of them during my visit, but perhaps I should go back at night..... :)<br />
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More photos from Bocachica can be seen <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/20120526Bocachica?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLK4juyswLDxRw&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here</a>.Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2701990808557777225.post-14640472446322418382012-05-27T21:06:00.000-05:002017-10-28T08:38:24.757-05:00Here's mud in your eye!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YKq6oQAz7iI/T8Fm6w1uAFI/AAAAAAAAD1c/7aTBkiuL6_o/s1600/03A+2012+05+19+Castillo+San+Felipe+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YKq6oQAz7iI/T8Fm6w1uAFI/AAAAAAAAD1c/7aTBkiuL6_o/s320/03A+2012+05+19+Castillo+San+Felipe+2.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the castle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Felipe Castle viewed from Manga, just outside the old city</td></tr>
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I took advantage of my former TNT colleague Frances's weeklong visit to do some things I hadn't done at all or since my initial visit to Cartagena 3 years ago! Not only does Cartagena have a 400 year old wall that encircles the old part of the city, there are also various defensive forts around the city leftover from colonial times. Frances and I visited the famed San Felipe "Castle" where I learned that George Washington's older half-brother Lawrence had been among the British troops that attacked this fort in 1741. He was there as a colonist who had volunteered to fight with the British navy, led by an Admiral Vernon. Later, when Lawrence inherited a Virginia estate, he renamed it Mount Vernon, after this admiral whom he admired. We Yanks now know Mount Vernon as George Washington's plantation home. Funny how surprising connections like this one come up; who would have thought there was a connection between Cartagena and Mount Vernon?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SkMNegOu2TU/T8Fm_BjsUAI/AAAAAAAAD1k/vp4c41zXJiE/s1600/05+IMG_4804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SkMNegOu2TU/T8Fm_BjsUAI/AAAAAAAAD1k/vp4c41zXJiE/s320/05+IMG_4804.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a typical lunch at Playa Blanca: fish, coconut rice, & fried plantains</td></tr>
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But I digress....back to the fortifications! This castle is readily seen from various points in Cartagena. It truly is impressive all of the huge walls and forts that were built around this city. I'm working on visiting more of them as well as learning more about their history.<br />
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We also took a day trip out to the Rosary Islands, a group of 27 islands which apparently from above look like they are linked together like a rosary. It is a protected area with some good snorkeling. We happened to go on the one day in the 6 months of my stay in Cartagena that it was cloudy (and it even rained), so the visibility for the snorkeling could have been better, but still it was good seeing colorful fish, coral, and touching a sea cucumber (icky feeling!!) . We then spent a few hours on a nice beach out in that direction, Playa Blanca, which was jam packed for the three-day weekend. Who knew that so many vendors could be around offering you so many things...jewelry, water, food, there were even "bars" in wheelbarrows; they'd make you a cold drink in nothing flat. Coco Loco, anyone?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9DxcU2z7yHg/T8FnQQgOL5I/AAAAAAAAD2M/hpWQSeoX4yU/s1600/18+P1000654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9DxcU2z7yHg/T8FnQQgOL5I/AAAAAAAAD2M/hpWQSeoX4yU/s320/18+P1000654.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just floating....</td></tr>
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The next day was the ultimate in Unique Things to do Around Cartagena: a dip in a mud volcano! The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Totumo" target="_blank">Totumo Mud Volcano</a> is only about a 40 minute trip outside the city but I hadn't yet been; a group of us went and it was pretty surreal. You are literally floating in what they say is an over 2500 foot deep pool of mud. You have the option of getting a brief massage while floating on your back (& then your stomach, keep your face up!) and can then hang out in the "bath" as long as you like. Later, they wipe you down as you get out and then you hop into the lake to get cleaned off, with the help of local women if you like (who are very aggressive in getting you cleaned up, your suit doesn't stay on with them!!).<br />
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And I <b>did</b> get mud in my eye. My advice is: don't! (Although the people at the volcano are experienced in helping you get it out should it happen....still, it's sore for a few days!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nDN0Au6gpUY/T8FncSE1LXI/AAAAAAAAD6A/z2aNVcDKbUA/s1600/28+P1000679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nDN0Au6gpUY/T8FncSE1LXI/AAAAAAAAD6A/z2aNVcDKbUA/s400/28+P1000679.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are avatars!<br />
(Which one am I?!)</td></tr>
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<i>More photos can be seen <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107631487011398850275/201205FrancesSaraInCartagena?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNPAguCm8v3ZzwE&feat=directlink" target="_blank">here.</a></i></div>
Barb(ara)http://www.blogger.com/profile/17054268607725116652noreply@blogger.com1